Chrysler Repair: heater/AC blower, speed choices, thermal fuse

Question
In December 2008 the heater/AC blower motor in my 2002
Chrysler Town & Country ran on high only all the time.  The
dealer fixed it and the repair ticket said, "Replaced
resistor and verified proper operation.  Recommended
replacing blower motor for excess current draw."  I didn't
replace the blower motor.  Now, two years later, the blower
has quit.  I have had it into an auto electric shop twice
and they have thrown up their hands and want me to go to the
dealer.  In the process of trying to fix the problem, they
put an "artificial ground" on the fan speed module which is
found in back of the glove box.  That made the system work
just fine but it has quit again.  They even replaced the
module with a new one but still had to do the "artifical
ground" to get it working.  So, it still has the original
module but the blower has quit again.  What can I do?  Can I
measure the current draw of the motor and what should the
draw be?  What are all the components I should be looking at
and how do I test them?  Where can I obtain a schematic or
diagram?
Thanks

Answer
Hi Earl,
I have a printed copy of the '02 manual which shows the system to have 5 fan speed choices. I also have a CD of the '04 system which shows a modified wiring diagram in that there are only 4 speeds and there is an added thermal fuse in the resistor block which is probbly self-resetting when it cools and thus is protective of the resistor block from premature failure. I believe that you could substitute the new style resistor block for your old one and have a system that is more resistant to failure. You would loose one of blower speeds as the result but it might be a good trade-off.
I don't have any spec on the current draw, but if the motor is working still the modified resistor block might allow it to continue to be used. The only other control items are in the control panel itself which is the switch which chooses which resistors in the block to carry the current to ground (or to by-pass entirely in your present setup for the high speed setting). In the modified block, the high setting will go through one common resistor, so presumably the fan may run a bit slower on high speed but by less prone to blow the block out. I can only xerox copy and postal mail you the '02 diagram, but can email you the '04 diagram now. Just give me a 'private' follow-up telling me you email address, and if you want me to mail you the copy of the '02 then tell me a postal mailing address as well. I am assuming that you have the manual temp control unit, if not and you have the automatic temp control system let me know that as well.
I am not certain what the shop meant by an artificial ground. Was that needed because the block burned out, and which then gave you only a high speed, or did the ground wire for the unit actually burn out?
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer. Thanks