QuestionQUESTION: Yesterday my LHS started cranking up then shut off soon after, it did this several times, then it cranked up just fine. Now today it started to do the same thing, except after several times it doesn't do anything when I try starting the car, it has power & everything. What can this be?
ANSWER: Hi Marvin,
It could be a weak battery. How old is is compared to it warranty? Also, it could be an engine fault which would be revealed by a fault code readout. Turn the key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window to see the mileage reading change to show a 4-digit number preceded by a P. Let me know the number(s) and we'll go from there. Tell me which engine (L) you have. A last possibility is related to the theft system. Watch the dash light to be sure it is disarmed. If not, try lock/unlock with the key on the passenger side door so as to disarm the system for certain.
Roland
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QUESTION: The battery seems fine lights aren't dimming at all, I tried the factory alarm disarm and it doesn't seem to be the problem. The dash light is off before I turn the key but it comes on solid when i turn the key to on the My instrument cluster stopped working the only thing that works is my fuel gauge so i cant get a code readout but I have the 3.5L engine.
ANSWER: Hi Marvin,
The lights 'not dimming' does not necessarily tell you the battery is OK, because the lights draw much less current than the starter motor. But if they don't dim when you actually get the starter motor to crank, then that would be a good indication that the battery is OK.
I am not certain how only the gas gauge can work as all the info to run that gauge also arrives on the same pair of wires that carry the digital data for the rest of the cluster gauges and lights. I suspect the gas gauge is not working either, so this could be due to a blown fuse (check fuses 1,7,14 in the box behind the left end cap of the dash) for the cluster or an 'open' in the digital wire pair that brings the data.
The other way to get a fault code is to plug in an OVD-II code reader in a socket under the dash to the left of the steering column. You can often get a free code readout at an Autozone parts store or for under $40 at an independent garage. Get the number(s) that way and let me know.
Roland
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QUESTION: My instrument cluster started working mysteriously & I was able to pull these codes P0340 P1495 P1684 P1687 P1695 P1698 I have a Haynes manual so I know what they mean but not necessarily know what to do about them
AnswerHi Marvin,
The 1684 is routine and says the battery supply was disconnected recently. The 0340 may be the one to fix the hard starting as it say the signal from the camshaft position sensor is not being received at the powertrain controller. The fix for that would be to replace the cam sensor in all likelihood, but not guaranteed.
The 1495 says a problem with the leak detection pump solenoid circuit which probably is the solenoid itself but you would need to get to the pump on the top rear of the gas tank to check that out.
The other 1600 series codes have all to do with the digital communication bus system not communicating between the various parts, and probably explains the cluster not working. Sorting out where in that bus wiring/power supply the problem is located will require some detailed work with a volt-ohm-meter and of course the problem will need to be present while the diagnosis occurs. If the cluster is working then probably so is the rest of the parts called out by the codes.
Roland
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