QuestionQUESTION: I know naturally its a pain to solve some problems on this car. But it cranks over just fine, just won't start. This is what I have tried (2.5L Sebring Conv, 2000)
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
Please help!
ANSWER: Hi Ian,
That is a very impressive trouble-shoot history. I'm wondering have you asked the pcm for fault codes using the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time? Then watch the odometer window to see if the mileage changes to show instead any 4-digit numbers preceded by a P. Something specific by that approach may be very helpful. The cam sensor 'buzzing' is suspicious so let us see if the pcm sees any issue revealed by a fault code.
Please let me know what you learn.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer and where you see the question about 'volunteer of the month' please consider a 'yes' if this response merits it. Thank you.
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QUESTION: Ok I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
Thank you again, very much!
ANSWER: Hi Ian,
Have you checked the resistance of the primary winding of the coil (0.6-0.8 ohms) and of the secondary (12,500-18,000 ohms)? On the trouble shoot of the distributor: on the 6-pin you have pin 1 black/light blue is sensor ground
pin 2 orange 8V supply for the sensor
pin 3 tan/yellow is sensor signal
pin 4 not used
pin 5 distributor grond
pin 6 black/gray ignition coil driver to pin 4 at the pcm
dark green/orange on the 2-pin plug is asd 12V output
The crank sensor should pulse 12 times for each revolution, 3 groups of 4 each at 69,49,29 and 9 BTDC for each set (a different cylinder). Not really random, rather has longer space between each of the 3 groups.
The cam sensor may be the issue but unfortunately unless you can get it from overseas as a separate part it means buying a rebuilt or new distributor. That seems to be the weakest link in the system. It may be that it is failing but not so bad as to set a code (P0340). Another owner evidentally did find a source that sold him the sensor individually.
I am certain you will solve this, so please let me know what does the trick.
Roland
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QUESTION: Ok roland I know the question chains here are a mess. We have like 5 or 3 diff chains out there, so please bare with me, I just hope your getting all the info.
Now for the results,
Pin 6, Ignition Driver, Gets 31ohm, no volts (Even in start)
Pin 5, Ground, Grounds to car, No Volts
Pin 3, Sensor Signal, 4.99 Volts, No ground ( I got volts with the connector being off the car?)
Pin 2, Power, 8.89V, Does not ground
Pin 1, Ground, No Volts
Also as a reminder, I do get toggle volts at the PCM Connection Pin#4 for the CAM Sensor, if it toggles and gives the PCM what it needs, its still bad? Or could be bad?
AnswerThere may be a typo in your last paragraph or? PCM Pin 4 is the other end of the ignition coil driver wire (black/gray). I believe, but am not certain, that Pin 4 either floats or has +12V on it when you have the ignition switch 'on'. I believe that it 'drives' the coil by momentarily grounding the black/gray wire, which generates the spark. I don't know what you mean be 'toggle volts' or 'toggles'. I believe that both the cam and crank sensor pulses are needed to time the injectors, but the crank alone times the spark. I just can't guarantee either sensor is bad, since you do get the signal pulsing. So for me, it still remains a mystery as to why you aren't getting spark.
