QuestionHi. I just bought a 03 Town & Country last Saturday, and already have a problem in starting the engine. When I turn the key to start position, I can hear something from the back (I suppose it's fuel pump working), but I don't hear anything from the front engine compartment. It doesn't look like battery problem since headlights and power sliding doors are working just fine and all the electric parts seem okay. However, I have to try several times to start the engine. Funny thing is that the engine starts exactly at sixth trial. It required 2-3 trials on the weekends, but it is now set to 6 trials to start the engine. So, I think it's getting worse. However, once the engine starts, everything goes okay so far.
I am not sure it's a right way to get fault code, but I tried 'on-off-on-off-on' trick to read fault code on odometer, but the only thing it says is 'done' on the odometer.
Please help!
AnswerHi BJ,
The "Done" means there are no fault codes stored in the controller. And the fuel pump sound is normal, it will cut off after a couple of seconds if you don't try the starter.
The starter motor is not being activated for one of several reasons which will requires a voltmeter or neon test light to determine. The motor will activate if the solenoid switch mounted on the motor is activated by the starter relay located in the engine compartment in the power distribution center next to the battery (I believe it is the 5th one from the front, adjacent to fuses 19 and 20 according to my '98 manual). The solenoid switch makes a loud click if it is activated, but you might want to verify that no 12V pulse appears at the solenoid on the brown wire when a helper tries the starter. That brown wire comes from the socket #87 of the starter relay, so you could jump a wire from the + post of the battery to that socket (which it closest to the front) after removing the relay to see if it will activate the solenoid and motor. If it does then that much of the circuit is o.k. Then you could put the relay back in, and try the starter again and listen for whether the relay clicks or not. If it does, then the ignition key and the safety interlock on the transmission are o.k. and you need a new relay because the internal contacts are not conducting (probably oxidized). If not, then I would check to see whether you get 12V on socket 86 of the relay socket when the starter action is initiated. If you do, then the ignition switch is o.k. but the safety interlock of the transmission is not. If you don't, then the ignition switch is flakey and you might try spraying it with electrical contact cleaner after removing the under panel of the steering column to gain access to the switch body. Squirt through any opening you can get your straw into or near.
I think that exhausts the possibilities. But let me know what you find from running these tests. I would probably begin by opening the power distribution center and locating the relay, and then listen/feel for whether it clicks when a helper tries the starter position at the ignition switch. Then you can go either way from there once you know that: either to the starter solenoid or back to the ignition switch. It might also be a weak battery: there could be sufficient current to light lights, etc, but not enough to activate the solenoid switch/starter motor proper. So see if there is a date of sale on the battery and see how old it is. You might try to charge it if you have a charger at home.
Please let me know if you get stuck in this troubleshooting process.
Roland
