QuestionThis car does not have a remote and is always unlocked with a key. Does this rule out the theft system, if it even has one?
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The text above is a follow-up to ...
-----Question-----
This car starts for 2 or 3 seconds then shuts down. The only code is 55. This problem started with no warning. The fuel pump runs with ignition on. This car is 200 miles away and I hope to rescue my son. I am suspecting one of the following is faulty:
Crankshaft sensor
Camshaft sensor
MAP sensor
EGR (if it has one)
Would you suggest something else to add to the list? Is there a way to easily isolate which one may be bad? In your experience, can they be listed in order of most likely to be faulty?
-----Answer-----
Hi Larry,
The 3.3 doesn't have an egr unless it was sold originally in California. The MAP sensor can be inaccurate but not set a code (usually it won't even start if that is the case); still that could be the reason.
My suspicion, though, is that the theft system has been alarmed and it is treating your son as a thief (the 2-3 second run than shutdown is exactly the behavior when the system is in the alarmed state). Usually you can lock/unlock either front door using the door key (try both) to clear the alarmed status. If that doesn't work because the wire from the lock is broken, then it is possible to clear it at the theft module, which is located above the glove box. (remove the screws around the box opening to drop the box out of the way). Then notice a 21-pin natural color connector on the module. If he takes a straight pin and probes thru the insulation on the dark green/orange wire on pin 8, and then do the same thing on the black/light green wire on pin 1, then touch the two pins together and separate them that will cancel the alarmed state. Pin 1 is at the left end of the bottom (11-pin) row and pin 8 is the fourth from the left on the upper (10-pin) row. That touching and then separating is just like locking and unlocking either front door with the key.
He can avoid this snafu by not locking the car with either the key or the remote or the power locks. Rather manually push down the door lock button when exiting which will secure the car without setting the theft alarm.
Let me know how it works out.
Roland
AnswerHi Larry,
I just saw your note along with the very kind evaluation and nomination. If the duration was significantly different, it might argue for the MAP being off-value but not so much as to set a code (this happened to me once with the 2.5 non-turbo engine, but the only way we found out for sure was the Chrysler tune-up expert to whom the car was towed put the DRB II on it and noticed that the resting MAP reading was inappropriate for the actual elevation of the car at that time). So if there is indeed no anti-theft module, that might be the reason.
Roland
Hi Larry,
No, if it had the theft system and the driver exited by using the power lock button or the key then the theft alarm is armed.
If your son used either of those techniques and then the wire to the door lock alarm switches, that is operated by the key, were to have failed, then the system would treat it as a theft attempt. But if you have had the car from the beginning and know that it doesn't have such a anti-theft system, then this hypothesis is out.
No run/no codes is a tough one. Other than the off-value sensor, the egr, or a deteriorating but not yet above the threshold for setting a code crank/cam sensor, I can't think of another reason except maybe a flakey autoshutdown relay (but that should set a code). The fact that it seems to run for exactly 2-3 seconds still makes me wonder about the theft module hypothesis. All the other possibilities require either a voltohm meter or a diagnostic readout box to check the operating parameter of the engine controller.
Roland
