Question
-why does alarm system light go on when turn key to start
chrysler lebaron lx convertible 1991 ?
model------------------------
Followup To
Question - why '91 chrysler lebaron lx convertible not start2
-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
Good Morning! I hope you ca help me because I need to use my
car.
Yesterday morning my car would't start. Turned key and it
seemed
to wanat to start but didn't. Kept trying, no luck. Then when
tried
again couldn't turn key, seemed frozen. Wiggled steering wheel
a
bit and soon got key to turn again but wouldn't start. Got out of
car
locked door and reopened it.No use. Was told might need to
unhook the alarm system. Does this make sense to you? If so,
how
do I unhook it? Please help asap. Sincerely, Julie B
Answer -
Hi Julie,
I don't think the 'no start' has anything to do with the alarm
system UNLESS the symptom is that the engine starts, runs for
about 3 seconds, and then dies, which is the way the theft alarm
works when it thinks someone is trying to steal the vehicle.
Otherwise it has to be something else.
I would try to readout the engine controller memory for fault
codes which would tell us whether it has noticed something
wrong which would give us direction as to why it won't start.
Take the ignition key and turn it:"on-off-on-off-on and leave it
on" doing that in an elapsed time of 5 seconds or less. I mean by
'on' just to the place where the key sits when the engine is
running and you are going down the road.
Then watch the 'check engine' light which remains 'on' when the
key is in the run position but the engine isn't running. Soon it
will start to flash, pause, flash, pause, etc. Count the number of
flashes before each pause and keep track of those. Then do the
key trick again to repeat the process and thus verify that you
have the numbers accurately. Then group the numbers in pairs
in the order that they occured to form two digit numbers which
are the fault codes. The last such number will be 55 which is the
code for "end of readout". Then either write me back and tell me
the other numbers for further advice and/or go to
www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html where you can find a list of what
the codes mean. When you write back tell me which engine you
have, if it isn't the 3.0L V-6 and also tell me if the car originally
was delivered in California or Canada so I know how its pollution
equipment is set up. Then I'll be in a position to tell you how to
get it to start.
If I am shown as maxed out just use the "thank and rate" tab
below and there is an opportunity there to respond via the
comment section. I get an alert that way even though I am
shown as 'maxed out' so I will respond to your information.
Try to get back to me before noon PDT, otherwise I will get your
response around 4 pm PDT and respond then.
Roland
Answer -
Hi Julie,
I didn't see any new information in your response. Please try
again if I am available or use the the thank and rate tab.
Roland
AnswerO.k. Julie,
Lets go back to my first response and get those fault codes.
Then let me know what they are.
The other part to examine is the exhaust gas recirculation valve which was used in the California only 3.0L engines in the early years of that motor. If the valve is stuck ajar due to a build up of crud on the valve stem it will prevent the engine from starting and idling.
So take a look at the exhaust gas recirculation (egr) valve and associated control and vacuum hoses. You will find the valve bolted into a narrow steel pipe that runs between the rear exhaust manifold (stand on the driver's side of the car and look down behind the engine for the exhaust manifold for the rear bank of cylinders close to the firewall). The valve is bolted into that narrow pipe and controls the exhaust gas amounts that return to the intake manifold at the throttle body on the top center intake manifold of the engine located at same driver's end of the engine. The valve has to open and close firmly and quickly or the engine will not operate well due to an improper mixture of fuel and air that will not allow the engine to accelerate or idle well, if the valve is not where it is supposed to be. Often it will get sticky and fail to close all the way, for example which it has to do at idle and when stepping on the gas toward full open throttle. It is controlled by a vacuum operated and electrical control solenoid mounted near by, and those vacuum hoses should be examined to make sure there is no cracked, leaking, or disconnected hose fittings. There is a vacuum operated round fitting on its top, and also a vacuum line going to an electrically operated valve closer to the engine, nearer the throttle body. Look under the round fitting (which is mounted on a saddle with openings for access to view) on the top of the valve where you will see a rod with a slot in it which is the valve stem. Take a straight blade screwdriver, insert it in the slot, and then use the driver to lever the valve up (against spring pressure) and let it return to see if it is dropping back all the way down due to spring's action and closing positively to a firm closed position. Spray WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant on the valve stem to loosen it up in that in and out motion. Check to make sure the vacuum lines are all attached and not cracked. Then see if the engine will now start and if so warm up the engine and observe the slot to see if it goes up when you rev the engine to 2500 rpm and then drops back down fully, closing the valve, when you let the engine go back to idle rpm. Make sure that the fully down position is really down because if it is not fully closing when you let go of the accelerator and coast that will cause the engine to stall. It may be that to get it to close you'll have to unbolt it and clean out the gas flow passage past the valve, due to buildup of exhaust fumes in the valve as sticky crud deposit around the internal valve.
Let me know if that doesn't help and tell me the codes and we'll consider some other possibilities. But the egr function can be a big detriment if it isn't in the correct position for the conditions that are needed for a good mixture.
Roland
Hi Julie,
Thank you for the very kind evaluation, yesterday.
As to you question about the light coming on when you turn it to start, I am not personally familiar with the normal function of that light and the '91 shop is moot on the point as well. Are you certain this is not the way it always has worked? I presume that is goes off once you start the engine, correct? Many such warning lights will do that as a test that they are not burned out when the ignition system/starter are activated.
I assume that you have the car running once again? If not write back and tell me about it and whether you have any fault codes as the result of reading out the engine controller.
Roland
