QuestionI have a 1997 T&C 3.8 V6 with 145K miles. It had been staying in second gear whenever i turn on the AC. I read that turning the car off and back on will reset the computer and it worked. I use to rebuild the 604 at ATC(AXIOM) in Rancho Cuamonga, CA and understand a little about them so i asked Kirk Houtchens an expert and he said to install a new solenoid pack. Unfortunetely, i didn't install the new solenoid pack before it did what it did yesterday. This is the primary question: I put the hand break on and put it in drive, instead of just idleing i can here a rattle and parts moving. In park it is fine i can even rev the engine so i have eliminated that as a possible problem. If I try to drive it i get 10 feet or so and the car cuts off this happenned abruptly on this Monday and though i was very low on gas i did fill my tank and the problem didn't go away I barely got home.What is my next step?
AnswerHi Quinn,
Noises from parts moving is of course not a good sign, because it suggests mechanical damage which leads to the need to remove and rebuild the trans. But you would want to determine if the noise is coming from the trans or the torque converter if possible to focus on which parts are at fault.
The history of locking up in 2nd gear is indicative that there would be fault codes stored in the computer memory which will also give you some direction as to what is wrong and what to do if you can read those out. It would be worth going to a dealer or independent transmission repair shop and get a service called "readout of the transmission computer" which is an electronic test for the presence of coded numbers representing different faults that the transmission is experiencing at the time when it locks up into 2nd gear. That exact lock up is what happens when the transmission computer notices something is wrong and so it protects the transmission by only driving in 2nd gear until it can be serviced so as to protect against any further damage. It is called "limp-in mode".
The chances are there is some internal mechanical wear/damage to the internal clutches of the transmission, but because the cost of rebuilding is so high it is worth spending a little on analyzing whether that is true or not. It may also be the case that the problem is with electrical connections/computer or with the transmission fluid system (hydraulic) and those can be repaired without removing or rebuilding the transmission, at much less cost.
The transmission has an electronic controller that has the ability to recognize malfunctions and store them in its memory as four-digit fault codes. An electronic readout device is plugged into a port under the dash to access the memory and tell you the fault code numbers. It would be worth spending about $50 to have this done just in case the problem had to do with the hydraulic or electronic parts rather than the internal mechanical parts because those could be repaired without taking the trans out of the car and dismantling it. So a dealer or a competent independent transmission shop with a reader for Chrysler transmissions should be able to do that. Ask for the code number(s), what they mean, what repair is needed and how much it will cost. Their reader has to be equipped with a program (cartridge) that accesses the transmission computer. A Chrysler dealer will have this device called a DRB III. You might be able to borrow a reader or buy one that is capable of reading OBD-II codes and do it yourself since getting it to a shop will be difficult in the present situation.
Then write back and we'll evaluate what you were told, particularly what are the fault code numbers. I have the factory repair manual and can look up what the numbers mean and what needs to be done to fix this.
You don't have to authorize a repair until you decide you understand the situation, and maybe get another repair estimate. You might even ask before they do the readout if in the case you decide to authorize the shop to do the repair "will the cost of the readout be credited against the cost of the repair"?
So take your time with this so you don't authorize unnecessary repairs. The cost of a rebuild is high so getting a second bid is worthwhile and also comparing warranty provisions is wise.
But that readout is the only way to avoid doing the wrong repair.
Roland
