QuestionRoland thanks for the answer so quickly.I will check the voltage again to make sure I am seeing if and the length of time it is there.Also I talked to the owner of the car and he told me he swapped relays in the power distribution center and thought he put them back in their original position.some of these relays have the same number and he thought if he swapped them the problem may be fixed.he hesitated when he replied making me wonder if one is in the wrong place.without the location information I may be looking for the wrong problem.You can mail the wiring information to me at Wayne Thomas RR4 box 262 Weymouth N.S. Canada B0W3T0 if it is possible. PS.When we replaced the cam and crank sensors there was no paper spacer as you indicated.also you didn't supply the wire codes you mentioned.again thanks for the response Wayne
AnswerHi Wayne,
Here is the failure to start test for the 3.3L engine, after ascertaining that it will not sustain a spark for 5 seconds of cranking, and evaluating the coil (I recall you said you had replaced the coil).
This no-start tests checks the camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor. The engine controller supplies 9 volts to the camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor through one circuit. If the 9-volt supply circuit shorts to ground, neither sensor will produce a signal (output voltage to the engine controller).
When the ignition key is turned and left in the On position, the engine controller automatically energizes the auto shutdown (ASD) relay. However, the controller de-energizes the relay within one second because it has not receive a crankshaft signal indicating engine rotation.
During cranking, the ASD relay will not energize until the engine controller receives a crankshaft signal. Secondly, the ASD relay remains energized only if the controller senses a camshaft sensor signal immediately after detecting the crankshaft sensor signal.
(1) Check battery voltage. Voltage should approximately be 12.66 volts or higher to perform failure to start test.
(2) Disconnect the harness connector from the coil pack.
(3) connect a test light (or voltmeter) to the B+ (battery voltage) terminal of the coil electrical connector and ground. The wire for the B+ terminal is dark greeen with a black tracer.
(4)Turn the ignition key to the ON position. The test light (or meter) should flash ON then Off. Do not turn the key to the off position, leave it in the On position.
(a)If the test light flashes momentarily, the engine controller grounded the autoshutdown relay (ASD) as it should. Proceed to step 5.
(b)If the test light did not flash, the ASD relay did not energize. The cause is either the relay or one of the ASD relay circuits. Use the DRB II to test the ASD relay and circuits. refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Manual. Refer to wiring diagrams for circuit information.
(5) Crank the engine. If the key was placed in the off position in step 4, place the key in the on position before cranking. Wait for the test light to flash once, then crank the engine.
(a)If the test light momentarily flashed during the cranking, the engine controller is not receiving a camshaft sensor signal. Use the DRB II to test the camshaft sensor and sensor circuits.
(b) If the test light did not flash during cranking, unplug the camshaft sensor connector. Turn the ignition key to the off position. Turn the key to the On position, wait for the test light to momentarily flash once, then crank the engine. If the test light momentarily flashes, the camshaft sensor is shorted and must be replaced. If the light did not flash the cause of the no start is in either the crankshaft/camshaft sensor 9 volt supply circuit, or the crankshaft 5 volt output circuit or circuit grounds. Use the DRB to test the crankshaft sensor and the sensor circuits.
So this is an interesting event tree sort of test to try. I can send the wiring diagrams.
