QuestionQUESTION: Hello! I could barely pump my own gas until I decided to become a car "expert" and now my wife wants to put me in the garage and move the car inside. I bought a 1930 studebaker that was running perfectly and I decided to change the wires and plugs. In doing so I pulled them all off and removed the distributor cap without marking it. I finally found the firing order on the engine block and have the wires back in proper order but now when I start the engine, it idles perfectly, and start to drive, the engine overheats within 1 block of my start position and then I cannot start the engine again. I am sure I have done something to the timing but am completely unsure of where, what, or how to begin fixing this. Can you help?
ANSWER: I should have told you to get back to me by using the "post a follow-up question", rather than using the "rate this answer" link. I seldom look at the rating stuff - I guess they use it for some sort of promo, but I happened to check it on a hunch, and there was your answer. No problem, only that I might have missed it.
You didn't say whether you noticed the change in the exhaust note, and you might not have, but I'm sure it sounds very labored, and a bit more staccato than it did before this adventure!
Anyway, you gave me enough information to guess what is wrong. I think you are one hole off on the distributor cap insertion of the plug wires.
Do the following: Take the distributor cap off the distributor, and have a helper crank the engine briefly, just long enough to note which way the rotor rotates (I don't have that info in my library.) It doesn't matter, except that what you need to do, once you note whether the rotor turns clockwise or counter-clockwise, is to move each cylinder's plug wire one hole "back", in other words contrary to the rotor's direction of rotation. This will "advance" the timing by a very large amount. If all you did was put the wires in one hole "off", this should exactly correct for the error. I must tell you, though, that I am amazed that the car started and ran well enough that you could drive it at all, because it was retarded at least 30 degrees - amazing. If you have a spark advance control on your steering column, you probably had to advance it to the maxium to even get the engine to run, and even then, I'm amazed it ran that well.
My amazement leads me to be somewhat suspicious that there is something else wrong too, but lets start with this step- it will either cure the problem or not, and whichever happens, please get back to me using "post follow up question" and we'll go to the next step, as needed.
Dick
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QUESTION: Thank you. I will tell you that the rotor turns counter-clockwise so I rotated the plugs clockwise 1 rotation. I cannot tell you if this will work yet as I am charging my battery. I believe I have done this once prior and it started but backfired terribly from this position. I do have a spark advance and it was running in that position so I have moved the spark advance back to its' original position. Your advice has been the most helpful to this point since I am a peasant mechanic at best. I will tell you I changed the spark plugs and set them at .026 gap. I figured that would be safe since I do not have any information telling me where to set the gap. I also replaced all of the wires, as well as the fan belt. I thought the overheating could be caused from a poor thermostat but again was unsure if this vehicle even had a thermostat. Don't laugh too hard. Again, your help to this point has kept this "fine kettle of fish" from frying! I will be in touch to let you know how things turn out.
ANSWER: OK, this method of communication works much better!
You're on the right track -just keep on keeping after it, we'll get it all sorted out.
You may know all this, but in case not, a brief tutorial on use of the spark advance lever follows:
The spark advance control should be set to "full retard" for starting (else the engine might kick back and possibly damage the starter), then once running, you should be able to advance the spark control until the engine runs faster and sounds less labored. At some point, depending on the range the control can move the timing, you might get to the point where you'll hear some rough sounds from the engine as it starts igniting the mixture before the pistons get to the top of their stroke - this is what is called "ping" or "pre-ignition" You don't want to run it that way, so pick the place where it sounds least labored, and runs with a minimum of throttle at a decent idle. That will be the optimum timing for curb idle. Then, when you are sailing down the road, you advance the spark bit by bit and note the car has more power to accelerate, and is more responsive to the throttle. Keep advancing until you can just barely induce "ping" at about 30 MPH in high gear and with light throttle pressure (slow accleration on a flat road). Make a note of that setting for future use - you can go directly to that setting in the future and get optimum performance and fuel economy, and least engine heating at that setting, once you are underway.
I hope you are going to have that result from our latest step at getting things back to normal.
I don't think your car has a thermostat - it's a bit too early for that, I believe. Back in those days, to get the engine to warm up in cold weather, one would put cardboard or the like over a portion of the radiator front to reduce the amount of cooling. There was a company called "Pines" who sold a device called the Pines "winterfront" - this was an accessory which most folks in the colder climates added to their cars which did the same thing, but was adjustable from nothing to maximum blockage for really severe conditions.
Your engine running severly retarded is sufficient cause for your overheating episode - I'd put it out of your mind at least for now. The plug gap of 0.026" is probably just about right - I sure wouldn't worry about it. I probably can dig up the right specifications for point and plug settings but that is the least of our worries at the moment.
Since you replaced the fan belt, I'm sure you checked to make sure it is taut enough that everything is turning up there, right?
OK, I'll crawl back in my cage until I hear more from you now.
Dick
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QUESTION: Dick,
Your patience with me is appreciated. I moved the plugs clockwise as the rotor was turning counterclockwise and I got nothing. I then moved them clockwise 2 positions and it started no problem. Okay, here is where we go! I took it out for a 2 block spin and this is what I observed. The spark advance is fully retarded (I believe, as when I advance it the distributor turns counter) and I can get from first to second. There is extremely little power. I attempted to advance the spark and then it started to backfire and the engine heated up quickly. I retarded the spark advance and drove slowly (as that is all I could do) back to the garage where I will be sleeping shortly. Due to your help I am currently allowed to stay inside as there has been a glimmer of hope.
God Bless,
Dan
AnswerOK, we'll have to go to plan "B" now:
Remove all the spark plugs, and take the distributor cap off so you can see the rotor. Set the spark advance control to the middle of the range. Make sure the car is out of gear. Take a tuft of Kleenex tissue and lay it over the front spark plug hole. Now, Take the crank (or if you don't have one, put a wrench on the front bolt on the crankshaft or otherwise devise a way to turn the engine by hand. Turn the engine by hand in a clockwise direction (as viewed from the front of the car) until you see the Kleenex puff up off the spark plug hole. Now you know you are starting up on the compression stroke. Take a soda straw or some other weak, long, thin rod and stick it down into the spark plug hole as far as it will go, if you can miss the valves and get down to the piston top. Now continue moving the crank in a clockwise direction until you have the piston all the way up. Do not back up the crank - just stop as you get to the top. If you can't get the straw past the valves, pour some motor oil in the hole (about 3 ounces should do it) and watch it bubble out of the hole as you turn the crank. When it stops coming, you're at the top.
NOW, look at the rotor. It is pointing at where it wants the #1 plug wire to be. Rotate the distributor such that the rotor is pointing at #1 by loosening the clamp - leave the spark advance lever in the center of it's range.
Now, the ignition timing is right. Let's see how it runs now - it will smoke a bit from the oil, but that'll go away after a few minutes - just start it at night, so the neighbors don't call the fire department on you!
Get back to me with a report - there may be something else wrong, but at least we know it is timed right.
Dick
