Classic/Antique Car Repair: 55 Clipper, oil bath air, torsion bars


Question
Dick,
 You have been a great help. A few more followup questions. First, it appears some jackass put a MOPAR Carter 2bbl carb on the engine. Having truoble locating the VIN that is stamped into the block. On the back of the engine behind the carb the numbers 440881 are stamped into the engine. Is this the VIN? Looking for the water pump and the oil fill cap, found the dip sticks and power steering resevior. Second, is there any difference between the two models of Carter 4bbl carbs?
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The text above is a follow-up to ...

-----Question-----
Dick,
 Thanks for the information. You should be recieving more questions from me. I took delivery on my Packard. VIN#- 5542-7184. Paint Code BG Trim 23. Questions arise by the multudes. The car looks to be on a 6v sys. but will not crank w/ brand new 6v battery. Did crank, but wouldn't start, on a 12v battery at initial inspection. Have I got the wrong battery? Red wire leads to engine. Black to starter. 55 Clipper is the Super model, 320 or 352? Oil bath air cleaner or regular? soooo many questions. Does not appear to have torsion bars. It also looks as if the previous owner switched the wiper to electric from the vacuum. I managed to get a lot of lube specs from tthe Packard Club web site and that is helpful.I wonder if I bit off more than I can chew............

-----Answer-----
Well, to start with the important stuff:  Your car is indeed a Super Clipper - the 6184th made in a total production run of 7979 for that model.  It weighs 3670 pounds and sold new for $2686 (with no options), so it was priced with the Pontiac - Dodge part of the market.  It came with a 320 Cu In V8, rated at 225 HP and 325 Lb Ft of torque.  Paint code BG means it was painted "Tourmaline" on top (whatever that is) and "Moonstone" on the bottom (ditto).  I'm color blind so I can't be much help on what those colors looked like, but it is a fairly rare combination.  If you go to the PAC club site, you can see the color charts, although the ones they are showing look too dark to me.  The trim code means it had light green cloth/dark green cloth interior (so I'm guessing the exterior colors were light over dark green).  The engine should be red, with black valve covers, with a stamped "Clipper script" on them (but some were plain or had decals).

The VIN should also be stamped on the top front of the engine block, just to the driver's side of the oil fill pipe, above the water pump.  It is hard to see because of crud and perhaps layers of paint, but it should be there, if the car has the original engine.

Torsion Level suspension was not an option on these cars - so you have what we Packard nuts call a "springer".  If you have automatic transmission, it is a "twin-Ultramatic" (most do, but a manual is far more desireable in those years, especially if it also has an overdrive.  Contrary to what 99% of people who "know Packards" will tell you, the Ultramatic is an excellent transmission if it is properly put together - it has a bad reputation because so few were built that shops that know how to work on them are just about non-existant.  I have 3 cars that I drive frequently with that same transmission, all of which I rebuilt myself, and they are delightful to drive.  I do admit that they are not as durable as other automatics, but I've gotten 30-50K miles out of each mine with no trouble, and then they need some of the bands and clutch plates replaced.  I also have one with manual and overdrive - and I prefer that for better performance and economy - so either way, don't give up on it because of the transmission.

All Packards were 12 volt in 1955, so you have the wrong battery.  Also, all were positive ground, so be sure you hook it up that way - that's unusual and most shops will screw it up for you if you don't warn them

To get it started, first take the distributor cap off and clean the points - I use very fine sand paper, to clean the oxide off.  Then blow the grit away, put the cap back on, and see if it will fire up now.  Most of the time this is all you need to do. Just dump a few ounces of gas down the carburetor and see if it will fire.

If you have power brakes, it is a bit of a problem to find a competent rebuilder for that unit (it is a Bendix "treadlevac", but there are at least two outfits I can recommend, or you can tackle it yourself if you're brave.  Kanter brothers can sell you a kit for it.  The rest of the braking system is very normal - any boob can fix it.  The same goes for the clutch, transmission, power steering, electrical system -just about the whole car is very normal - the only tricky things are the engine itself (you really need a Packard expert to do the engine if it needs it) and the transmission and brake booster.

It may have come with either an oil bath air cleaner or a plain mesh type. If it has a 2 barrel carburetor (it probably does, it will have a plain mesh air cleaner - the 4 bbls typically had an oil bath type.

There is nothing unusual about lubrication - just hit every zerk fitting with your grease gun and that is all it wants. The automatic takes modern Dexron/MerconIII to top it up. If it has an automatic, I DO NOT recommend draining and refilling it.  Top it up once you get it running - check it in park after shifting to all the gears first, but don't throw away the original fluid unless is it looks and smells burnt.

The rear axle and manual trans/overdrive cases take GL-4 grease - don't use the modern GL-5, it has additives that will harm the bushings and shims.  Unless you live in very cold climate, use SAE140W grease.

Run SAE30W engine oil, I use NAPA's premium brand.  Stay away from the modern 10W30 etc - it's way too thin for these old engines.

These are really unusual cars, you'll have the only one on your block, for sure!  Save it if you can.

I'll be here and I'll help where I can.  You can contact me directly for more info, or parts availability information etc.

Dick (dickb@sdccu.net)  

Answer
440881 sounds like a part number to me, and if it is cast into the part (not stamped onto a machined flat surface), that is what it is.  That is very close to the part number that should be on your intake manifold, which is 440891.

The VIN should match the VIN stamped on the stainless steel plate spot-welded on the driver's side door hinge post. The format would be 5542-XXXX or XXXXX for your car.

A 2bbl carburetor would not fit on the original intake manifold - so if you have one that fits the intake manifold, something is strange here.  In 1956, there was a 2 bbl carburetor for the Clipper, a Carter WDG 2393S.  This is a fine carburetor, and if that is what you have, there is no reason not to continue to run it. If that is what you have, you should also have a 2 Bbl intake manifold, of course.

Regarding differences between the "two models" of Carter 4 bbl carburetors, I don't really understand what you are asking.  There is only one Carter for the 1955s, the WCFB.  Perhaps you were asking about the Packard carburetors, they were Rochester 4GCs - but the Carter is a much more trouble-free carburetor, in my experience.

The water pump is right behind the fan, the oil fill pipe is on the front of the engine just to the right of and slightly behind the water pump.

Dick