QuestionQUESTION: I tried to make this a follow up question but was unable.
the original was this:
UESTION: Hi, I have read some of your previous answers to the same problem I am hearing; that is, clutch squealing when engaging. If I have this right, it sounds like my 1992 Miata with 88,000 miles is ready for a new clutch, T/O bearing, and various seals that you mentioned.
My question is this:
I am also hearing, intermittently, a little squealing noise as I shift. There is also a slight resistance as I am going into a gear, this is also intermittent. Is this relater to the T/O bearing problem, or is it something with the transmission that I need to deal with, preferably at the same time the clutch is done?
Thanks very much.
My new question is:
I did the clutch and it works great; no noise.
However, I am still feeling resistance when shifting into gear. It is worst when cold, more pronounced in first and third, and sometimes not there at all. There can be a little "click" noise going into gear, also, although mostly this is absent.
So, I'm thinking that there is a transmission issue also; but I'm not having to use much pressure to go into gear even at the worst, just more than I would expect.
So, is this something I need to deal with now? Will it get worse, or harm any other components if I just keep driving it until it becomes a real problem? Right now, its just a slight annoyance; I am not racing this and don't mind taking a little more time to shift deliberately.
Thanks very much.
ANSWER: Adjust out the free play on the clutch pedal, this will change your pedal timing and assist shift feel.
If you haven't in awhile consider installing a new master and slave cylinder (use new Mazda parts), use DOT3/4 Full Synthetic brake fluid, bleed it out well. Old fluid and worn pistons can upset pedal timing and will affect release timing and shifting as a result.
On the base of the shifter itself is a ball end this end must have a white nylon bushing attached to it, check to see if the bushing has a split in it is cracked or missing all together (if so fish out the fragments). Also the shifter ratchet box should be filled with 75w-90 gear oil up to the first ring, if the fluid looks old use a syringe to syphon it all out and clean inside as best you can.
Use a full synthetic gear oil (valvoline 75w-90 synpower)
These measures will take into account most shifter related issues.
If you have synchronizer wear in the transmission then these won't solve the problem though it could make things feel better. INternal wear is a fact of usage not one you need to be overly concerned with. These transmissions have exceeded 400k already so at 88k you would have had to gotten water or something nasty in there and I seriously doubt it.
All early Miatas have some gate to gate resistance it is due to the tension springs inside the ratchet box. Some vary considerably over others.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: The clutch pedal pressure is lighter since the overhaul, I noticed. It also seems that the clutch engagement point is pretty low in the pedal travel.
Is this what you mean by "free play" on the clutch pedal?
I haven't been able to check the other things yet.
Thanks
AnswerLighter pressure could be the result of a pressure plate with less clamping force (lighter springs), it could also be a sign that your old one was failing. If you used Mazda NEW (not the reconditioned line) or ACT brand the plate pressure should increase and pedal resistance as a result.
Free play is the slack in the pedal, basically the free hanging of the pedal at it's pivot to the engagement point of the hydraulic system. If you grab the clutch pedal with your hand an it has a fair amount of wiggle (in/out) with no resistance then you need to remove that slack to increase your pedal timing and that in turn adjusts the point at which it engages and disengages. The clutch pedal push rod has a 10mm hex on it and a 12mm hex lock nut. Contort your body lay on the floor upside down loosen the 12mm lock nut turn the 10mm push rod (by hand after the lock nut is loose) and turn it clockwise to reduce the slack. Once you feel resistance back off by 1/4 turn tighten the lock nut and you've adjusted the free play some slack is needed. No other adjustment of the clutch is possible.
If you still have an issue replace the parts and fluid as previously suggested.
Happy Miataing
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