Motorcycle Repair: timing and syncing carbs, maximum gap, hash marks

Question
Bill, I am currently working on a 1973 CB350F.  I have been using an old Chiltons manual from the local library for my reference and the original owners manual (surprisingly indepth).  While setting the static timing for cylinder# 2&3 both references direct me to set the marking just right of the 2.3 mark.  Unfortunatly for me the markings are not where the pubs say they should be, rather there is a factory cut 1/4"-3/8" semi-circle in its place, therefore I am confused on the proper timing setting for cylinders 2&3.  Also whiles syncing the carbs the first thing required by the Chilton manual is to measure a distance from the throttle stop to the throttle bracket a distance of 2.205", the picture in the book is not very clear.  Could you please enlighten me with a better explanation of what I'm trying to accomplish here
Mucho Gracias
AL

Answer
AL, I don't use the books much and a lot of it is misleading or incomplete.

You might want to remove the point plate and clean up the  marks on the spark advancer unit, so they are easier to see. Also check the advancer to see that it is moving freely into advance and retard positions.
As recall you are looking through a small round window in the point plate to check the timing. First, clean the point faces up so they are nice and shiny and there is no grit left behind. Lube the point cam with either point grease or a drop of oil on the felt. Turn the engine over until you see the points open to the maximum gap and then adjust the point set until the gap is .012-.014". Tighten up the point sets and then move the point plate around until the points just open at the F mark alignment with the mark on the engine case. Then move the small timing adjustment plate for the right side points to match the F mark for the other set of cylinders.I always use a dynamic timing light to verify the ignition timing, both at idle and at full advance which are the double hash marks towards the right of the T and F marks. Once you have the ignition timing set properly you can proceed to the carb adjustments. Move the speed adjustement screw so the engine is in the 1200 rpm range, then you can focus on adjusting each carburetor. You will need a set of vacuum gauges or the mercury stick type of carb synch to do this accurately. Generally, if the yellow paint hasn't been disturbed on the adjuster screws, I would leave the adjustment alone. Be sure that the carbs are clean inside, the floats are set properly (21mm) and the O-rings for all the jets and float needle are still okay. Mixture screw should be set about 7/8 turn out from all the way in (gently).
I am assuming that you have even compresion in all cylinders and there are no air leaks at the manifolds or exhaust system that will affect the carb settings.

Bill Silver