QuestionQUESTION: My 025 won't oil the bar and my 011 av stalls under load.
I'm not a big fan of Stihl right now and would like to throw them both away and buy a brand that runs.
Anyway what do you suggest I try to fix thes tow issues. i would be impressed if I could get them to work.
Dave
ANSWER: Hello Dave:
1- The 025; Clean the Bar Oiling Port with a Straight Pin. If the Port is Clear, then Make Sure the Oiler is Primed and Any Lines for the Oiler are Not Cranked or Damaged. If the Oiler is Primed, Any Hoses are Good and the Oil Port is Clear, then Replace the Bar Oil Pump. 2- The 011; Did you Check the Exhaust Port and Muffler? If Either of these are Restricted with Carbon Deposits, then the Engine May Run at Idle but will Flood when you Try to Rev the Engine above Idle. The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Doing a Diagnostic on the Engine for this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated. **Remove the Muffler and Make Sure the Exhaust Port is Clear. If it is, then Try to Start the engine with the Muffler Off. If it Starts and Runs Properly, then Clean the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler or Replace the Muffler if Required. If the Exhaust Port and Muffler are Clear, then Try Setting the Air Mixture Screws. The Following is the Instruction File for Setting the Air Mixture Screws. Any Input is Appreciated. The Procedure is the Same for 1 or 2 Mixture Screws, Just Use the Instruction File and Skip Over the Section with the Missing Mixture Screw. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws: ****Turn the Idle Air (L) and Main Air (H) Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air (H) Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air (L) Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If the Air Mixture Screw Settings Make No Difference in How the Unit is Operating, then Remove, Soak and Clean the Carburetor. The Cost of the Cleaning Solution I Use is $30.00us @ Gallon (I Use Gunk). The Gallon Can Comes with a Tray for Small Parts and the Carburetor Fits Nicely. Most Times a Carburetor can be Soaked and Cleaned and with the Float, Needle Valve and Other Carburetor Components being Soaked in the Cleaner with the Carburetor Body; there are No Parts to Replace on this Carburetor. If you Soak and Clean this Carburetor and the Float Needle Valve Still Does Not Stop the Gas Flow Properly, then Purchase a Needle and Seat Kit and Replace it. The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. The Most Common Cause is; The Carburetors Internal Passages are Restricted by Varnish that Gas Forms Over Time. This Varnish is in Layers. To Properly Remove this Varnish you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Following is a General Instruction File for Carburetor Cleaning. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also. The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool. Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable). The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle. Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.*** (Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***. ****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body. If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body. Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws: ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine. Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test. If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle. By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting. This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components. If you have Questions, Please Ask. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Lots of great stuff and I will gladly dive into this but do you know where to find and online parts breakdown for these. The 025 and the 011. I also don't know the names of all the carb parts.
To let you know I took the carb apart and my screen had some holes in it. I took the small cover off my muffler, no difference, I regapped the spark plug to .51 mm, no help. But I opened the L port an extra turn and it kept running when under load. What does that tell you? I read where some guy had to do that to his saw. Obviously the motor must be running lean at 1.5 turns. I need to lear to rebuild a carb and I have a weed eater that won't run anymore after 15 yrs so I'll try on that first then try the Saw.
ANSWER: Hello Again Dave:
Stihl Does Not Offer Any Online Support Except for a Dealer Locator. However, you can Use the Following Site Addys to Locate Breakdowns for Carburetors. For Walbro; You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Carburetor at this Site Addy, http://69.16.165.8/ and Select Service & Aftermarket. Now Select Aftermarket Parts and Service. Now Select the OEM (). Now Select Trimmer. Now Select your Carburetor () from the List Provided. For Nikki; http://www.carburetorfactory.com/ and Select Technical Information. You can View a Breakdown of the Carburetor at this Site Addy http://www.tillotson.ie/ and Download the Flash Player. Then Enter the Site. Now Select Tech Info. Now Select Service Manuals from the Drop Down List Under the Tech Info Tab. Your Carburetor should be in the HU or the HS Series Manual. The 1.5 Turns is a Basic Mixture Setting so the Engine can be Started. Usually the Mixture Screw has to be Leaned Out, However on Some Engines the Mixture Screw has to be Enriched as with your Engine. In my Instruction File I Believe I Say the Mixture Screws Might have to be Turned Out More on Some Model Engines. Usually if this has to be Done and the Carburetor has Not been Soaked and Cleaned; this is a Sign that the Carburetors Internal Passages are Becoming Restricted with Varnish and the Carburetor will Require Soaking and Cleaning before Long. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Great info again! I really liked how you made a good simple point about me having to open the L more than 1.5. It makes since that the passage might be tarnished restricting the flow. That is the kind of info I can remember to help others that have this problem. It doesn't surprise me that it is varnished because it was my great Uncles and may have been sitting for years with gas in the carb. My local dealer who is passionate about this stuff gets a bad report because he tells people to buy the good stuff from him and that Walmart products are junk. I happened to stop in and ask him about my trimmer and Chainsaw and he really took the time to tell me about why it's important and how to care for my engines. i bought a new trimmer from him and just lastnight I ran the Satbil through the carb to store it fro the winter. he said many people poor the stabil in the tank but never run it through the carb. I laughed and said yes many of my friends use this but aren't doing it properly. I wish i could just get a gas line and run it from the carb straight into the Stabil bottle and run it until the carb smokes up a little stabil and dies then I'd know I ran pure stabil in the carb and it was flushed out.
Randy's In Greenfield IN is where i go and unfortunately i can be the guy that doesn't want to pay him $150 for repair when A new one is $300. i will say i wasn't to happy when he sold us a trimmer with dual lines that snap in. They don't cut as well and they are very inefficient with line. I had to reline it constantly and you waste half of every piece. In his defense I took my old one in close to closing time and he switched the heads out at no charge. My single line Echo bump feeder ran like a dream for 15 yrs and I stored it with gas in it over the winter, didn't know any better, I am determined to get her back up and running and hang it over my fireplace.
AnswerHi Dave:
This has been my Experience with Stabil. I have Heard the Recommendations About the Stabilizer making Gasoline Good for 18 to 24 Months. I have Never Gotten Good Performance from Gasoline that has been Stored with Stabil in it if the Gasoline is Over 10 to 11 Months Old. After that Amount of Time the Breakdown Process has Started (But is Slowed Somewhat by the Stabil Additive I Assume) and from then on the Performance of the Equipment I am Using Gets Worse. I Suggest Using All the Gasoline Up Within 9 to 10 Months Tops. You will Never be Sorry you Did. I Understand the Reasoning for Not wanting to Pay and Most People can't Afford to Pay the Cost to Repair Lawn Equipment when a New One Usually Costs a Few Dollars More. The Bill for Cleaning a Carburetor is Around $35.00us and a New Carburetor is $17.00 to 65.00 Depending on the Model of the Engine. Most Carburetors on the Engines Today Don't Require Parts, Just Soaking and Cleaning will Usually Correct the Carburetor Problems. The Reason the Old Echo Lasted even with Gas Stored in it is Due to the Fact that the Older Gasoline was a Better Quality Gas and Didn't Damage the Rubber Diaphragm. I am Like you on the Trimmer Head. For General Purpose I Use the Bump Feed like you, but for the More Heavy Work I Use the 4 Way Chain Head. It Cuts Heavier Brush and Sapling Trees up to 1/2" with Easy and Makes Clearing Brush Easier than One could Imagine. Thanks for the Up Date. Its been Great. Have a Great Holiday Season. Till Next Time. May All Your Mechanical Problems be SMALL ONES and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks Again for Using All Experts.
Best Wishes and Good Luck
Respectfully
John
