Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Toro PTO/Clutch Issue, amp fuses, clutch assembly

Question
Hello Fred,

I am having PTO/Clutch problems with my Toro Proline 44" Hydro Drive SFS, Model #30291, serial #210005239. With a 16 horse Kohler engine, Model CV15T, Serial # 8117706611.

Initially it by started blowing the 7.5amp inline fuse about every thrid time I mowed.  Then it stared blowing the same fuse (PTO/Clutch) several times during mowing unless allowed to cool off.  I foolishly inserted a larger amp rated fuse (10amp) and the PTO/Clutch would engage the blades when the switch was pulled up.  This worked fine until it started blowing the 10 amp fuses as well, then the PTO/Cluth completely quit working.   I asked my local repair shop, he suggested it was a defective Clutch assembly.  I ordered ithe clutch through his shop, and replaced it.  But the Pto/Clutch still will not engage the blades when I pull the switch.  This mower does not have a battery, unfortunately i have to pull start it.  Thanks for your help- RODNEY

Answer
Having a manuals starter will help you with this problem because with an electric starter in the PTO circuit tight into everything.

Let's eliminate the clutch first you can bench test the clutch with these two tests one, apply 12 V to the clutch and should click into place. Next you will need a digital ohm meter. The coil in the clutch should have 0.03 amps of resistance. Using an analog meter it is impossible to see Demeter remove the small. But dealer should be able to do this for you while you're standing at the counter they only needs is a digital ohm meter. If clutch tests, I it's good

Now that we know the clutch is good we work our way back in the PTO circuit. Start with the cable that plugs into the clutch examine it closely for frayed wires or burnt wire cased by arcing. If all is fine follow those wires back into the harness and back to the switch. The switch is a double pole double throw switch that actually controls two separate circuits. When it's turned on and off for our safety circuits this should be tested individually. Next would be the operator presence switch the Bard that you have to hold onto to keep the blades operate. Test the switch with the continuity meter. From there the only thing you could be would be the safety module and that is just replace what I mean is there is no real test for it the parts is good or  bad.

The next place would be the state or on the engine stater would have a diode that changes alternating current to direct current find the diode and test current should only flow in one direction to a diode. Next check the of put of the engine with the meter. Be sure it is putting out DC the volts beyond the diode

hope this information has helped. Good luck on your project.