QuestionQUESTION: Hi there...I have a Huskee MTD 13A6693G131 Model,with a OHV17 Tecumseh. Engine family STP490UlG2RA. and i'm getting descusted.I bought it from a older gent feller.He Said it had no spark.So well....of cource I then figured......oh....not a problem. Wrong..!.
Here's the sitch John.The motor turned over fine with the plug out, but there was no spark.I unplugged the Ignition switch and crossed the Starter Solenoid with a screwdriver. And got spark.hmm...I then did the run of the Mill through the safty swithces.Some were disconnected or broke, such as the reverse shut off at side shifer, and the seat deal.It appears the others such as the Clutch switch and the deck switch were working.The motor had no turn over when they were called upon.But was wondering also if these could have been part of my problem ,on getting spark, which i'm quite sure, but had no way to test them.I proceeded to advance to the ignitin switch area looking for bad connections and even bought a new ignition switch.Still no spark.Lets look at the coil field..I disconnected the green wire from coil.Still no spark.Disc. the Red Wire.BINGO Spark.I asked myself how in the heck will this run with both those disconneted? Well Let me give it a whorl......I Put New Plug in and snugged it.Connected the New Battery.And Commenced to Fire the Pig.It just didn't turn fast enough.I boosted the charge, still not much cranking going on.And Starter was getting to worm.Starter appears New.Why would this Turn so Hard? I'm not suggesting to my-self to even think about buying a new starter....NOPE.Trial and error one part a Time does not agree with my Money Sock under the Mattress to well.
I Pulled the Valve cover Off.BINGO.......Valve Arms were looser than grandma's Dentures.One of the Arms was just hanging.And the Push rod of one,was standing aside like a Mad girlfriend. Everything Still looks real good though.And Push rods still straight.Please Note:This Machine is Very close to Like new condition, with Low miles.I made the proper adjustments i believe about 4 gap on each side? and proceeded to turn things over nice and slowly.Turns much better,O.k....Trying to start it now.With the 2 said coil wires still disconnectd too=for the got spark reason,for the moment.It's Not even thinkin about firing to start.And now I have another problem.......Not Getting GAS.I put a bit in the Cylinder.....Not! And Tried some in the Carb...Stil NOT. No Start,Still has spark too.As I looked for a FOR SALE Sign in the Shed,I saw a Flywheel key on the Bench and said. Huh....?. Some of the Talk on many of these GEMs mention here The Keyway.I can Check that if that is a suggestion.?
One other small question please, Besides HELP ME!!! please.
is > When those magnets there on the flywheel come in contact Center with the Coil.Where is the Piston suppose to be at this point? I was wondering if it was suppose to be TDC.? Mine ain't. And if it is suppose to-be. Thank you so very much for your time. And sorry about the length of question.4 days 6 hours and several minutes Later along with several avenues of Trouble Shooting for progress.I turn to you for Results John.Regards.....Grass is Growing here in NY ,She don't like the push mower well and wants this Letter out to you ASAP.Regards Wayne in NY
ANSWER: Hello Wayne:
Sorry. Gotta LOL. OK I'm Good lol. Now you See what a Week in the Life of a Small Engine Mechanic can Be Like. First. Set the Valves as Follows: Intake .002in - .004in and Exhaust .008in - .010in. The Exhaust is Set to Close and the Compression Release May be the Reason the Engine Won't Start. Are the Valve Adjustment Locks Still in the Adjustment Nuts? If Not the Nuts Will Just Work Loose and you will Have the Same Starting Problem Before Long. The Safety Switches Ground the Coil. This May be the Reason for No Fire at the Plug when you Connect the Shut Off Wire. The Magnets are Timed Using the Flywheel Key. By Timed I Mean the Flywheel Key Sets the Flywheel so the Magnets Pass the Coil at the Proper Time in Relation to the Position of the Piston in the Cylinder. Usually a Little Before TDC. Not the Problem Here. You May have to Clean and Rebuild the Carburetor if this has Set a Long Time. No Worries about the Length of the Question. Whatever it takes to get the Information Across. LOL. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let Me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
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QUESTION: Thanks John....the Valve Adjustment Locks are Still in the Adjustment Nuts. I will get these adjusted shortly.When this get said and done i will do a compression check as well and let you know what the reading is.
Next:You mention ". By Timed I Mean the Flywheel Key Sets the Flywheel so the Magnets Pass the Coil at the Proper Time in Relation to the Position of the Piston in the Cylinder. Usually a Little Before TDC." The Piston is about 3" into the cylinder here on this when the magnet is in line with the coil.I was thinking that maybe if the this didn't sound like the correct position for the piston,that maybe the "Key"
may be sheared.??
Next: As far as the not getting gas goes,maybe the correct valve adjustment may render a sort of vacuum to help pull the gas to the Cylinder?Also i believe that, that there Solenoid on the float bowl of the carb only has 1 wire connected to it.The ground.If i juice the tab next to the the ground with 12volts i hear the solenoid click.I believe it works but someone done went and swiped the wire from harness there somewheres i believe.If i go and wire it with with a hot i found on the other side of motor that becomes hot when ignition is turned on, is this a good idea? Not sure on what how this fuel shut off? solenoid is suppose to work.And I believe the carb is clean,but will take a look at it after i hear back from you on some of these other options mentioned.Thank you in Advance.
ANSWER: Hello Again Wayne:
I Have Never Really Paid Much Attention to the Distance the Piston is in the Cylinder in Relation to the Flywheel Magnets. The 3" Does Sound a Bit Much Though. If the Valves are Not Adjusted Properly, the Engine Can't Pull the Gas Through the Carburetor Jet. However, the Solenoid Needs to and Can Be Connected to the Hot Wire as You Described as Long as the Solenoid Shuts Off When the Switch is Turned Off. The Solenoid Shuts Off the Gas to the Carburetor Jet. I Would Not Clean the Carburetor Until you are Sure it is Required. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let Me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
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QUESTION: Well......I've tried everything today.Adjusting Valves, And still not getting gas.No Fire at all even putting gas to the carb and or Cykinder.NOTHING happening.Took and Wired the a hot to to Carb Solenoid.And tried it with out a hot as well.Before hand.I decided to do compression check, and got it up to say 85lbs or so.Nothing left to do, but PULL the FLYWHEEL.Like i had mentioned.I Strongly believed that the Piston should be close to TDS when the magnet on the flywheel passed through by the Coil.I marked the flywheel position and the Cranks center threaded Shaft for a Reference point,pull the Flywheel and Sure enough......The Keyway was just laying there, And the flywheel was no wheres near where it was suppose to be , in line with Shaft keyway Slot.Once I alined the flywheel with the Crank.I proceeded tightening down the Nut,I rotated the the Flywheel till Flywheel Magnet Came in Line face to Face with Coil, and Bingo.Very Close to "Top Dead Center".It Fired up with-in Seconds and got gas...as well Hey....Gas too.Huh!After re-assembling all the cover pieces to hood and a few other things.>
I Cut the grass for about 45 minutes, and all went well.
The Only thing I don't like is that it REVs a bit high, with just a touch of the Throttle.I tried adjusting the GOV spring at Linkage to Gov Arm.The spring appears a little heavy and i am going to look into that.Also did some Throttle position of cable adjustments To get her to settle down to idle,and Got it to Settle down some to idle fine.But Man....I don't even think I would try 3/4 THROTTLE or maybe even 1/2 Throttle with the throttle Arm.
One more thing:I had noticed from jump start of this project, that there were 2 wires coming out of under of the Flywheel.They are heavy wires and have a 2 prong plug.There is nothing no-wheres to plug these in.One is red and I would have to check the color of other.But When I pulled the Flywheel today.I took a look.Sure enough they go to a Stator type winding. Charging? Alt?
There is absolutely no-wheres to connect these said Wires.Can you give me some incite on this please?
**** FYI > for anyone else Reading this Entire Log here.
I never did get any spark yet with the 2 coil wires hooked up to Coil.Red and Green.I Keep them UNPLUGGED at 2 prong harness near starter area to start the motor,Which then gives me spark.I just Plug these 2 back in the harness to kill the motor when running with key on.I will track this problem down.Probably just a safety switch feature deal here somewheres.
ANSWER: Hello Again Wayne:
The 2 Wires you are Asking about are from the Stator (Charger/Alternator/Generator). They Should have a Connection in the Harness Near where the Exit the Blower Housing. Did you Torque the Flywheel to at Least 150ft Pounds? Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let Me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
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QUESTION: Hi John
Yes Torque is good.Thanks for checking.
Oh...the Alt Charge wires,as figured. Where is this said Exit blower housing located? I just don't see any wire connector for this.Or where would they lead to? Maybe i can back track from a certain point of wiring.Got more grass to cut tomorrow,hope all goes well with this Gem, before i Go and Put that there Said "For Sale Sign" Rather on the Push Mower She ain't hoping She Gonna Be Needing right off.Heck 20 Dollars Fur it it'le get me about What 3 er 4 Gallons of gas here these Days... ;-)
Thanks for your Time and Guidance John.
AnswerHello Again Wayne:
WOW. This is Unusal. I was Just Reviewing Our Convo and Noticed I haven't Given you a Site Addy for this Mower. Sorry. Go to this Site Addy, http://www.ordertree.com/index.asp and Scroll Down. Then Select the OEM from the Drop Down List on the Left Side of the Page and Enter the Model Numbers 13A6693G131. Usually the Wire for the Stator is Located with the Shut Off Wire in the Harness. If you Locate the Shut Off Wire, the Charging Wire Should be Near. I Usually Wire the Stator to the Battery Side of the Solenoid if the Harness Doesn't have the Wire for it or the Wire in the Harness is Bad. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let Me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
