QuestionThere is a question / answer I have a question about:
Expert: Rob Painter
Date: 12/25/2004
Subject: 1989 GM Tilt Steering Wheel Repair
Near the end of the answer is the following information:
“…Install 4 way. Install lock plate and cancel cam. Make sure both return springs on T/S are good. The lock plate is broacked and only fits one way with the upper shaft. Install lock plate tool and crank down wiggling the tool. You are trying to get the bearing to seat. Do not force! If the plate will not go down far enough to expose the groove in the shaft the bearing is not seated. Grab the lock plate tool and move back and forth. You will hear a snap and the bearing is now seated. Install snap ring. Once tou have bolted the steering column to the dash, hold the brake and put the trans in nuetral. Take the shift indicator cable and clip on in the center of nuetral. That will line the indicator up. Then its just a matter of installing the stuff at the bottom and the steering wheel. Line up the notch on the wheel with the notch on the shaft. Instaal horn wire and horn pad.
Sounds complicated, but should not take over an hour with no experience..”
I did not have to do all of the prescribed information. I just needed to replace the ignition lock. After replacing it, I am unable to get the lock plate down enough to get the seat ring in place.
From what I can tell,
Bearings on the outside of shaft.
A “thrust washer” is in place between the bearings and the steering shaft.
There is a bearing “thrust cap” that goes over the outer curvature of the shaft and sits on and next to the thrust washer. This thrust cap holds the thrust washer in place so the shaft does not wobble.
There is a spring that sits on top of the thrust cap.
The canceling cam sits on top of the spring.
The locking ring sits on top of the canceling cam.
I then use the locking ring compressor tool to compress the spring to seat the snap ring.
This is where I run into trouble.
The best compression is still 1/16th inch from the start of the snap ring valley, meaning I need to compress another 1/8th inch.
While compressing, the shaft literally pulls out from the steering column. This causes the thrust cap to no longer hold the thrust washer in place which in turn causes the steering wheel to wobble.
With the spring compressed, I can not see the spring between the thrust cap and the canceling cam, I am still too short.
I am under the impression that the thrust cap will sit just inline with the curvature of the shaft. And that the cap does not fit in between the thrust washer and the shaft.
How do I get the spring to compress enough to get the snap ring in place?
What am I missing?
Please advise.
AnswerHello Rob,
I believe you have the bearing race (thrust cap?) in the wrong position. The bearing race cup looks like a flat washer with a rounded lip in the center. It goes in with lip toward the little ball bearings first, and then the regular "thrust washer" that looks like a flat washer with no lip goes on top. The spring goes next and then the cancel cam and then lock plate.
Make sure you also index the lockplate on the shaft correctly. Some models had one spline larger than the rest and it needs indexed with the larger slot in the lockplate.
Hope that helps.
Have a great day!
-Jay
