Triumph Repair: 73 spitfire, bench vise, reputable shop

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Followup To
Question -
Hello again Jim,

Thanks for your previous answers. You are a great help to me as a novice attempting something I always wanted to do but was afraid to try.

The u-joints problem I had with pressing them in is more towards using the 100 ton press version. Actually I used my bench vise but actually bent the bench handle 90 dgerees and still couldnt get one of them in.

So I probably need new yokes. The problem is all I can find are used ones and they have the same problem. British Vic and Moss dont show them in their catalogs. Where can I get new ones?

Next question is The 1500 engine only has 35000 miles but has been sitting for a long time. The guy I got it from started it while I was there, but only for a minute using starting fluid. I think I should have it taken apart, cleaned, maybe new rings, valve job and honing cylinders... But was thinking if I do that I might as well have it bored and do whatever I can to give it more power and last longer (maybe thats an oxymoron). What do you suggest and do you know of a reputable shop or individual I can send it to? I have it out of the car so I can ship it anywhere.

Next question - The tranny is out but I have no idea if it needs anything. The guy I got it from said it was fine but the last time he drove it was 10 years ago. What should I do and should I consider sending it to a specialist as well and if so can you recommend one?

Thanks again for your help.
Chuck (flying blind but loving it)
Answer -
Chuck,

About used axles... not all used ones have been "used hard"...  although it would be better if you can find someone semi-local so you can check them out before laying out lots of cash.

Try the classifieds at www.vtr.org.  Both check the "for sale" ads and if there is no promising ads consider a "parts wanted" ad.

At the same time, see if there is a VTR recognized chapter (car club) in your area.  That's a good way to stumble onto decent used parts.  At the very least you can embarrass someone if they sell you bum axles.

About the engine:  there are two ways you can look at it.  You can either dive into the engine figuring you won't have to re-do it later.. or you can just run it until it breaks, figuring that the Spitfire engine is very easy to get out of the car.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to pour a small amount of a light oil (some people favor ATF fluid for this) into each cylinder and let it try to lube the rings, there's a possibility that they're stuck it the piston grooves after having the engine sit so long.

You might also spring for a gasket set and pull the pan gasket and check the rod and main bearings for wear/scoring.  Open the oil pump and check for wear on the end plate, and make sure to refill the pump with oil before closing it.   Look around in the crankcase area for signs of damage or corrosion.

Set up the engine and crank it to test compression.  

If it's a true unopened '73 1500 it should have the 7.5:1 (dished )compression ratio pistons.  A simple power upgrade is to rebuild the engine using the 9:1 flat top pistons from the mid-70s Spitfire /Midget 1500s.  At the same time a mild street cam will help.  And a free flow exhaust... and porting and polishing and lots of money.

As to machine shops:  I'd be inclined to look locally.   That way you can actually go look at the shop (or at least some of their work) and you have a better chance of heading off any problems before it gets to legal action.

As to the tranny:  Drain the oil into a clean catch can.  Is the oil generally clean looking?  lots of metal flakes (brass) floating in suspension?  Any steel flakes on the magnetic drain plug?

Put the trans in neutral and remove the gearbox top (it has the shifting linkage in it).  Look at the gear teeth.  Corrosion is bad.  So are chipped teeth.  The synchros (brass) should wobble a bit bit.. but the gears shouldn't have much side-to-side free play.  

Spin the input shaft and click the shifting collars into gear.  Does everything move smoothly and spin freely?

Unless there's anything really obvious then the trans has a good chance of being ok.  The problem is that the old english transmissions aren't really that great, especially compared to most new cars today.  2nd gear synchro has a tendency to be weak or die early as most American drivers tend to slam their shifts rather than treat the gearbox with finess.

I don't have any personal recommendations for specialists... these days there are so few of the cars being worked on that the only real "specialists" are tied into the major parts suppliers (The Roadster Factory, Moss Motors, Victoria British, etc).  For everyone I've spoken to that like a particular vendor it seems there's another who complains about them.  Some of it is just people being picky.  

That's why I do my own rebuild work.  :D

My personal suggestion would be to get the car mostly together and take a test drive.  Before you fully install the interior (trans tunnel, carpets, seats, etc) just bolt in the drivers seat and do a quick test drive.  With the trans tunnel and seats out it's possible to pull a trans in about 30 minutes without heroics.  

BTW, what part of the country are you in?  


Cheers,

Jim

Thanks for the quick response. Im in San Antonio Texas. Not much of an area for British Sports Car enthusiasts. No local clubs. I'll look around Austin and Dallas and see what I can find.

Thanks again.

If you have another email address where you can be reached and are willing to answer more questions it would be great in case I cant get you here as I will be working on this project for another year or so.

Oh I almost forgot are TR6's as easy to work on as spitfires? I was thinking of doing a TR6 when this is finished if I still have the desire.
Any experience using other engines than the stock 6cyl. Ive seen some with 327 chevy and they look and sound good but I think you would have to do a lot to the suspension and obviously use a different rear end. Just curious.

have a great 4th!  

Answer
Chuck,

Sorry for the delay, this one snuck in when I was out of town for the holiday.

There's a good club in the Dallas Ft Worth area, they should be reachable via www.redrivertriumphclub.com

If not, check the club listing on www.vtr.org  

As to TR6s, they're not quite as easy to work on as the Spitfire.  From a mechanical point of view the Spitfire is great:  full flip front for easy access to the drivetrain, suspension with the springs around the front shocks, etc.

Then again, the TR6 is designed around the tall straight 6 cylinder engine so there's a bit more room in the engine bay.

A properly set up TR6 engine can be quite interesting.  A neat way to tweak the engine is to track down one of the fuel injection setups from the European TR6/ 2500 Saloons.  In stock form the fuel injected engines were rated at 150hp, vs the sub-100 for the US emissions versions.


Cheers,

Jim

ps.  The Dallas club may know where to find me... ;D