Questioni was halfway to work (20 miles from home) when my beloved 1972 super (gerta gretl, made alla metal) decided to call it quits.
she had been running fine for quite a while, a slow oil leak her only major problem. i'll admit, my job has had me busy for a while, and i neglected to check her oil level in about a week, but i didnt think it would go so fast.
i'm in fourth, tooling along the freeway when, all of a sudden, it seemed as though i had no power, and 65 mph in fourth felt like it was bogging down. slipped into neutral and coasted to the shoulder.
got out to look at her engine, saw no outward sign of dysfunction, and thought i should check the oil. 2 burned fingers later, i discovered i was REALLY low on oil, but not out. it lookid dark and thick, but still moving. i added a little, and when i open the cap, a wisp of smoke came out.
i waited. checked oil level and it was about right, a little low, but way better.
got in the driver seat, and tried to bring her back to life, in vain. i could hear the starter turning the engine, and could smell gasoline (flooded the engine, too), but no spark.
random VW loving hippies pointed me in the right way, saying it might be the coil, the ignition switch, or my points, plugs, and wires.
my problem is this: i replaced the coil with a new bosch coil, careful when i plugged everything in, and tried to start her up. same issue, no change.
i bought the car used, for dirt cheap, and fixed her up to running shape. i installed the "protronix" igniter, which drops into my distributor. i guess its a magnetic sensor that can tell the distance of the gap on the plugs and sends the appropriate charge. i was told to be careful when i plugged my coil in that if i crossed wires, i'd fry my "protronix". i'm wondering now if maybe my car wont start because that is busted (70.00 part), or if its the ignition switch, or maybe simply a fuse issue.
ever come across a situation like this? if so, what would you suggest?
sorry my question is so long winded, i type like i talk....
please help if you can,
bradford
AnswerBradford and gerta gretl made alla metal (love that name),
Well, here it goes:
Oil problem first.
1) You need to do a compression check on each cylinder to make sure that the motor isn't fried before you throw a dime into it.
Here's how you do it for under 20.00 bucks:
a) Adjust the valve clearances. Any VW book will show you how to do it. It's simple, brainless work that will take about 30 minutes. The only thing you have to remember is: the engine must be dead cold. (given your situation, that shouldn't be a problem)
b) Go buy a cheap compression gauge for under $20.00 at an auto parts store. You simply remove the spark plug, screw the gauge into the spark plug hole, turn gretl over for about 5 seconds, and than read the meter. Repeat process for each cylinder. It needs to read between 70-120 PSI.
c) Also, you shouldn't have any readings that swing from cylinder to cylinder over 25 PSI. (i.e. cyl 1,4,2 = 120 PSI cyl 3 = 60 PSI -- nay nay, that is no good)
This almighty test will let you know if you have an engine for which to continue. From your description, you have a fair chance your motor is still alive.
If you pass the compression test than address the ignition issue. If it fails miserably, let me know. I can refer you to an excellent place that will send gerta a new heart already assembled for about 1,500. (don't think it comes in an Igloo cooler though!)
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Ignition Fixation:
a) Ditch the electronic ignition. Throw it as far away from the car as possible. Launch it into space, throw it in a lake, whatever. Unless you are driving a souped-up, ram-air over-caffeinated turbo-buggy you should not have electronic ignition. Although, it doesn't hurt the engine, it makes diagnosing problems a nightmare! The stock VW ignition system is WAY over-designed, and can propel a Porsche to 120 MPH if it wanted to, and still not break a sweat.
b) Get Bosch points, condenser, coil, cap, rotor, plugs. If you need wires, get them too.
c) Install them.
Your engine is fool-proof and will spark-up. If you are unsure of the wiring for the coil..here it is:
1) The black wire (the one that also goes to the black fuse holder for the reverse lights) goes to + on the coil.
2) The wire from the carb. electric choke goes to + on the coil.
3) The green wire from the condensor goes to - on the coil.
That's it.
Oh yea, Wondering if you have voltage at the coil? Turn your ignition switch to "on" and put a test light, meter or some other type of electric 12V device on the coil. (one lead to plus, the other to minus) you should have juice.
Let me know how you and gerta gretl made alla metal make out, I'll be curious.
Take Care,
Ron
