Trolling motors have a very important function when it comes to fishing. Their designs allow them to maneuver small boats in and around weed beds, hold position against the wind, hover over drop-offs or cruise through harbor areas, both in fresh water and saltwater. Trolling motors move quietly and efficiently, using only a small electric motor supplied by a single or multiple set of batteries. Simple in design and function, they are easily maintained. Step up your trolling motor for more power and speed by making a few adjustments and switching out some basic components.
Trailer your boat and chock the trailer wheels. Place the trolling motor switch in the "off" position. If your boat currently has an automobile battery on board, swap it out in favor of a deep-cycle marine battery. Unclasp the alligator clips attached to the battery, by removing the negative clip from the battery first. For battery clamps, use a socket and wrench to remove the negative battery cable first, then the positive.
Remove the old battery, using a socket to unscrew any hold-down bolts on the battery strap or bracket mounts. Place a fully charged deep-cycle marine battery in the battery box, and secure it in place with the strap or bracket bolts, using the appropriate socket. Clean the terminal posts or battery clamps with a battery cleaning tool.
Charge the battery with a marine battery charger, according to the directions, which will prescribe maximum and deep saturation. This will be the slowest charge rate, and take the longest time to charge the battery.
Determine the gauge (diameter) size of the main battery wires to the trolling motor. To increase the voltage output and speed of the motor, select a gauge or two higher than the current wire installation. For example, if you currently have 12-gauge wire, upgrade to 10-gauge. Make sure the battery has been disconnected and that the power switch is in the off position.
Use a screwdriver to remove the trolling motor top case. Use a screwdriver or socket to remove the electric motor wires. Cut two new lengths of battery wire. Connect two eyelets on each end of the new wire by crimping them on with wire strippers.
Fasten the wires to the motor terminals with a screwdriver or socket. Use wire strippers to crimp on two new alligator clips on the other ends of the wire, or connect the wire ends to two new battery clamps with a socket.
Use a pair of pliers to remove the prop shaft cotter pin, if so equipped. Use a screwdriver to bend up the locking tab, if so equipped. Unscrew the propeller shaft nut with a socket and wrench. Pull the nut, spacer or locking tab spacer from the shaft. Remove the old propeller.
Place a new high-performance, three-blade propeller on the shaft. Replace the spacer, or locking tab spacer on the shaft and screw the propeller nut down with a torque wrench, according to your motor manual's specifications. Replace the cotter key inside the castellated nut and flare the ends of it with pliers. Use a screwdriver to bend the locking tab over the shaft nut, if it has this configuration.
