In general, when a problem arises with the clutch of a Ford Probe, it is caused by a worn out clutch disc. The replacement requires not only a thorough understanding of the technique and tools needed, but the dust that is produced by the wear on the clutch, which collects on the various components, may contain asbestos. The clutch in this vehicle is most easily accessed by removing the transaxle, leaving the engine in the vehicle.
Check the level of the brake fluid for the master cylinder in the larger reservoir with black cap near the rear of the engine. If this level is low, fill with DOT 3 brake fluid. However, if it has emptied enough to allow air into the master cylinder, the clutch hydraulic system will need to be bled.
Fill the reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Access the release cylinder located under the vehicle on the front of the clutch housing and remove the bleeder cap from the bleeder screw. Fit one end of a plastic tube over the bleeder screw and run it into a clear container with about 2 inches of fluid in the bottom, the end of the tube must remain in the fluid. A second person will be needed to depress and release the clutch pedal. Continue this process until a stream of fluid is ejected, free of air bubbles, from the bleeder screw.
Turn the engine on and allow it to run at normal idle speed with the transaxle in neutral. Disengage the clutch, wait several seconds and then shift into reverse. If a grinding noise is heard, there may be a problem with the pressure plate or the clutch disc. This will check what is known as the 'clutch spin-down time.'
Use the parking break to prevent movement and hold the clutch pedal about a half of an inch from the floor. Shift between first gear and reverse several times, paying attention to how smooth the shift is. Roughness will indicate failure of one or more components, but is not suggestive of what may have failed.
Depress the clutch completely and be sure that the release cylinder push-rod lengthens quite a bit. Check the level of brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder if it does not and fill if needed.
Check the pivot bushing that is at the top of the clutch pedal to ensure there is neither excessive movement nor binding.
Check that the clutch release fork is mounted on the ball stud solidly.
Support the engine while the transaxle is out of the vehicle. An engine hoist is the most reliable option, but if a jack stand is used a large, square piece of wood needs to be positioned between the jack and the oil pan to evenly distribute the weight of the motor and prevent engine oil starvation caused by the pan bending or distorting.
Insert the clutch alignment tool that was included with the replacement kit through the clutch disc hub to support the clutch disc during removal.
Use the scribe or paint to mark the pressure plate and flywheel for proper alignment during installation.
Loosen the pressure plate to flywheel bolts using the ratchet and appropriate socket 1/4 turn at a time in a criss-cross pattern until the spring pressure has been released completely. Securely hold the pressure plate and remove entirely first the bolts and then the pressure plate and clutch disc.
Check the flywheel for cracks, grooves, heat checking and any other visible defects. Regardless of the surface appearance, it is recommended to have a machine shop machine the surface completely smooth. A medium grit emery cloth can be used to remove light glazing.
Look over the pilot bearing and check for wear or scoring. This bearing is most easily removed with a T58L-101-B or equivalent puller, but there are other methods that will work as well.
Examine the lining on the clutch disc to be sure it is at least 1/16 inch above the rivet heads; check for loose rivets, cracks, broken springs, distortion or any other obvious damage and replace if needed.
Rotate the outer segment of the release bearing while holding the center and applying pressure. If the turning motion is not smooth, or a noise is produced, the bearing and hub assembly needs replaced.
Clean any surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel that were machined with clean hands and lacquer thinner or acetone. It is essential that no grease or oil be left on these surfaces or the lining of the clutch disc.
Make sure the damper springs of the clutch disc are facing toward the transaxle, and use the alignment tool to hold the clutch disc and pressure plate in place against the flywheel.
Replace the pressure plate to flywheel bolts and tighten finger tight only, working around the pressure plate.
Wiggle the alignment tool as needed through the splined hub into the pilot bearing in the crankshaft to carefully bottom the tool in the pilot bearing. This will make sure the clutch disc is centered properly.
Tighten the pressure plate to flywheel bolts in a criss-cross pattern and a little at a time to prevent distortion of the cover. Carefully torque these bolts to between thirteen and twenty foot pounds and remove the alignment tool.
Lubricate the inner groove of the release bearing, the release fork ball socket, the ends and contact areas of the release fork, the release cylinder pushrod socket, and the transaxle input shaft bearing retainer generously with high temperature grease. The transaxle input shaft splines and the face of the release bearing where it makes contact with the pressure plate diaphragm fingers will also need a light coat of this grease.
Attach the release bearing to the release fork. Slide the release bearing onto the transaxle input shaft while passing the end of the release fork through the opening in the clutch housing. Push the release fork onto the ball stud until it's firmly seated.
Reconnect the hydraulic line of the release cylinder, tighten the fitting, if needed fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid and bleed the system as described above.
Secure the transaxle to the jack, raise it into position and turn the torque converter to line up the drive studs with the holes in the driveplate, aligning the marks made with the scribe or paint earlier.
Move the transaxle carefully forward until the engine block dowel pins are engaged with the holes in the transaxle mounting flange. Replace the transaxle to engine housing bolts and torque them to between 66 and 86 foot pounds.
Install first the center and then the left transaxle mounts and brackets, tightening the nuts and bolts securely.
Install the crossmember and left lower arm as an assembly, tightening the bolts and nuts securely.
Install the right transaxle mount, tightening the bolts and nuts securely.
Install all other components that were removed during the replacement of the clutch assembly.
Tighten all types of fasteners to the appropriate torque specifications: Master cylinder mounting nuts - 14 to 19 foot pounds; Release cylinder mounting bolts - (All 1989 and 1990 non-turbo four cylinder models) 14 to 19 foot pounds; and (1990 turbo four cylinder and V6 models) 12 to 17 foot pounds
