QuestionQUESTION: the serpentine belt broke and i changed on the side of the road where it broke down at and then i tryed starting it and it will turn over but it want start i tryed jumping the battery i changed the plugs and checked the distributor cap and it still want start any ideas this is my main family car and i cant get it running and i cant afford a mechanic thank you for your time
ANSWER: Hi Jessica,
The best thing to try is using the ignition key to find out if the engine control computer has noticed what the fault might be and stored a fault code in its memory. Turn the key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window to see if the mileage reading changes and instead shows a 4-digit number(s) preceeded by a P. Let me know any such numbers and we'll go from there. I can't think of any reason why the belt braking would also cause a no start unless the engine really overheated, but maybe there was something that failed simultaneously with the belt. Did you loose coolant/overheat the engine in the incident? Are you getting spark to the plugs? Do you hear the fuel pump (in the tank) run for about a second when you first turn the key to the run position (which is should do)?
I'll keep my fingers crossed!
Roland
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---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: i tried that no numbers showed up other then the mileage. i did not lose any coolant and it didn't overheat. i tried to see if it got a spark and it did not.. so I'm not sure why or what it can be to help it get a spark. if you can please get back to me thank you very much for you time and thoughts..
AnswerHi Jessica,
Give the key one more try, making sure you go from off to on, etc, within 5 seconds total. It would really help if we could get a number. I assume the check engine light just stayed on when you were done and didn't start flashing (which is the earlier way to get codes), correct? If we can't get codes with the key, then I hestite to tell you to buy anything as that is likely to be expensive and unrewarding. A fault code reader that plugs into a socket under the dash next to the steering column is the last way to get codes. Can you borrow one from a neighbor or friend? They cost between $75-100.
Other than possibly the rotor in the distributor being 'open' I wouldn't try buying any other parts without a code readout, or access to a volt-ohm meter and doing some voltage measurements. The rotor is under $10 so that would not be a waste if that is not the explanation. Do you hear the fuel pump run for a second or so when you turn the key to run?
Please answer my questions and we'll go from there.
Roland
