QuestionFirst, thanks for your time!
ME:
I was a marine mechanic in a previous life, have rebuilt dozens of boat engines, otherwise mostly classic cars from MG/FIAT/VW to big ol' 427Big-block Chevys though it has been a number of years. Finances now dictate I must do this myself as I have lots of time and very little $$.
I have about any tool you can imagine, can borrow anything I need, and have access to a lift.
HISTORY:
I bought the car at 1 year old (~13k miles) and had nothing but problems -- I saw more tow-trucks in that period than in my previous 20+ years of driving "beaters." At ~75k it seemed to settle out and has now gone nearly TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND (Now at ~270k) miles with no real problems!
Daughter ignored squealing water-pump and it seized, literally melting the timinh belt (never seen anything like it!) and trashing the engine.
I let her live, so far... ;o)
Up to this moment the car was a reliable, daily driver. The top was replaced a couple of years ago and is still like new. Since I know it's a good car, I decided to replace the engine with a rebuilt and hope for another 100k plus without major issues...
I've obtained a used (identical) engine from a wrecked (in rear) car. It has 118k/mi, I want to do a mini-rebuild before installing.
New engine ran in (wrecked) car for ~1/2 hour, no problems.
Inside valve-covers looks GREAT, water-pump looks new, disassembly showed some obvious-quality work and some REALLY nasty "shade-tree" idiocy, but I believe overall quality is still good.
Crank and main seals, valve-covers, etc. all leaking oii, but no signs of abnormal wear. Filter was high-quality and pretty new, no signs of oil in water or reverse... Coolant also not new but in decent shape - bottle pretty clean, etc.
(wrecked) car seemed well cared for in and out.
I plan to replace:
* Every single gasket - big or small - on the whole engine.
* Any rubber hose with oil-damage
* timing belt and idler/tensioner pulleys
* water-pump
* Oil sump-screen/pump
* Cam /main seals
* valve-seals, FI o-rings, etc.
* Serp./drive belts and tensioner/idler pulleys
* EGR valve and etc...
I also plan to:
* do a leak-down / compression test on cylinders
* plastigage the crank/rod bearings and replace any more than 50% worn
* clean carbon out of intakes, etc.
* Since the wiring-harness is saturated in oil, I plan to clean it as good as possible, then strip the "wrapping" off a section at a time, inspect and re-wrap as well as do a continuity/resistance test and repair as needed.
Which brings me - finally - to my Questions:
(1) I'm "TORN" about the heads.
On the one hand "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
On the other hand, I don't want to blow a head-gasket 6 months from now and be cursing myself because I didn't do the HGs while I was at it -- Thus:
:Q: Should I go ahead and pull the heads or leave them alone?
(2) Assuming:...
* a good compression/leak-down test,
* good visual inspection of cylinder walls
...is there any good reason why I should pull the pistons to check ring-gaps and etc?
(3) I have a "Haynes" manual I am working from, and use "AutoZone" website repair info to double-check. Both talk about how important it is to follow proper LOWER intake bolt-tightening sequence, both say "see figure x.xx for sequence" -- but "figure X.XX has arrows pointing to bolts but no numbers or other "sequence" indicators.
:Q: What is the tightening sequence for the lower intake?
(4) To save $$ with the mechanic who's going to do the "swap" (his lift) I want to get the engine as close to "out" as I can. It will go on a roll-back trailer ~6 miles to his shop.
:Q: Any reason I can't go ahead and pull the drive-axles and all else (including under-engine cross-member) EXCEPT the motor-mounts so we'd be almost ready to drop it when it got ther?
(4) What am I overlooking? I am **SURE** there must be something...
I deeply appreciate your time, and any and all input you may have!!
Sincerely,
Alan
AnswerHi Alan,
Thanks for the very complete question and background. It will be a good reference for anyone contemplating this job.
In response to your questions:
1. Based upon the mileage and the apparent condition I would be inclined to leave well enough alone. I haven't had inquiry about head gaskets being blown on this engine compared to the older 4 cyl engines in the Chryslers. So I would take a chance on them being OK.
2.Similarly on the pistons.
3. The manifold tightening sequence is:
timing belt 7-1-3-5
end 8-2-4-6
4. The fsm shows about 20 steps for removal prior to putting the engine cradle/dolly under the engine and lowering the vehicle so the engine is supported, then lifting the body.
Here is a condensed list of the items from the '98 Conv. manual:
release fuel pressure, disconnect battery, remove PCM, drain cooling system, remove upper radiator hose, radiator, fan module, lower radiator hose, remove automatic trans lines and plug, disconnect trans shift linkage, disconnect throttle body linkage, disconnect wiring harness from engine,disconnect heater hoses, remove refrigerant from AC system, lift vehicle remove right inner splash shield, remove accessory drive belts, remove axle shafts, disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold, remove front and rear engine mount througb bolts, lower vehicle, remove air cleaner assembly, remove power steering pump and reservoir, remove AC compressor, remove ground strap to body, mount Miller special took 6973 to right side of cylinder block (bracket for cradle post support), raise vehicle enough to allow Miller 6135 and 6710 to be installed under the vehicle, loosen cradle mount bolts enough to allow alignment with holes on engine bedplate, lower vehicle until engine is resting on mounts, tighten mounts to cradle, lower vehicle enough so that engine and trans are only supported on cradle, remove engine and trans mounting bolts, raise vehicle slowly, it may be necessary to move the cradle to clear the body flanges.
I would be pleased to copy the two pages that show those steps, and the reverse for installation, and mail those today.
I have the '96 Cirrus/Stratus manual (and '96 Sebring Conv. 'supp.' but that doesn't include a section about the engine, assuming the C/S is identical) and the '98 Sebring Conv. manual. Either way I could copy 56 pages on the engine, and 14 pages on the intake and exhaust manifolds and postal mail you those. I believe I can get copies for about 6 cents a page and so with postage I could get you these for $6.00. I can send them without waiting to receive the money which you can send back after you get them.
Tell me a postal address if you want me to do that. I can at least send you the 2 pages today.
Roland
