QuestionHi Von,
I need your help with my 1995 Altima. Here we go.
Sometime around February of this year, I bought a 1995 Nissan Altima SE automatic. I bought it because my lovely trouble-free 1996 Nissan Altima had been totaled as I had gotten in an accident. But since my experience had been so awesome with that car, I decided to continue with the Altima, instead of looking at a different car.
Anyway, so when I bought this one, it already had the check engine light on. I could make out that it was in a not so good condition and had not been maintained very well. I started using the vehicle and it drove fine for the first few months (the check engine light was still on, maybe one of the biggest mistakes that I might have made, but that is another story for another day). After the first few months, it started to feel a little underpowered and would require greater effort to accelerate. As time passed by, it got more and more sluggish, to the point, where it would take ages to reach 60 mph - but it was still driving.
2-3 months back, it happened for the first time - it stalled. Here is how the stalling happens. After this, I will cover what the mechanics have done. The vehicle is moving, all of a sudden, the tacho drops to zero (its an abrupt and not a gradual drop), the engine shuts off, the lights come on and the steering wheel locks up. This car does not have a radio, but the other electricals work just fine. If I am lucky, then sometimes I will be able to crank the vehicle right back, sometimes it will take 5-10 minutes, sometimes 30-40, and then I have had days when it did not start back on at all. Once it stalls, there is no way of knowing when it will be before I can start it back on, as there is no definite pattern. The other thing that I have noticed is that if I have reached my destination, or if I have to stop by a place real quick (like to get a pack of cigarettes from Circle k), and if I shut off the vehicle, come back in 2 minutes, and try and start it back up, it won't start, so I have to leave it on. This was happening before the mechanic did what I have described below. I don't know whether this would happen now or not, but I am not willing to take the chance to find out.
Now - here is what the mechanics have done. One of them was not able to figure out what the issue was, so he recommended me to an auto electrician. I left the vehicle with the auto electrician, but it did not stall while he had it, so he was not able to diagnose the issue. He did some electrical work on it, mostly throttle wiring if I remember correctly, and the check engine light disappeared. The vehicle drove fine for 2 days, till I took it out one night, when the headlight started to dim a little bit while I was stopped at a traffic light. When the light turned green, I took a left and it stalled. I was able to start it back up after some effort, but the check engine light came back on.
Since the light had dimmed, I thought it might be an alternator issue so I got the alternator and the battery checked with Autozone sometime back and they said that both were fine.
Now, I take my vehicle to this new mechanic (the one who is working on it right now), he runs the scanner, turns out the code is for a camshaft position sensor and a knock sensor. So we replace the distributor (a rebuilt one, the caps and rotor are still the same). Next day, he recommends working on the fuel system as well. At this point in time, I am thinking that this might be a fuel related issue, even if it is not, I still need to get this vehicle fully fixed, so I give him the green signal, and these are the things that he does.
Removed and replaced fuel filter.
Throttle body service.
Changed Air filter.
Remove and install new spark plugs.
Changed transmission fluid.
Changed alternator belt.
Changed A/C belt
Changed idler pulley bearing.
Fuel injection flush.
Transmission flush.
Remove and replaced both serpentine belts.
Changed crankshaft position sensor.
Obviously, the vehicle drives much better, it feels more powerful and is much more fun to drive.
After getting all of this done, I took the vehicle back home, it drove great for 2 days, and then boom - stalled again. I tried to crank it back up, it would turn over but not start. After 5 or 6 attempts, I would able to start it back up, the check engine light came back on (which had disappeared after replacing the distributor and getting all of the above done). Anyway, I was able to drive it home without any more events.
I took it to the shop next day, where he ran the scanner which pulled up the MAF sensor. He played around with it a little bit, the check engine light went away and the vehicle from there on drove like a blast - for 50 miles or so, after which the check engine light came back on again (before stalling), and after another 5 miles or so, it stalled again. This was during the night, so it was a little cooler. During my drive back home, it stalled at least 4 times. I was able to start the vehicle after letting it sit for 10 minutes or so, after which it would drive for 5-10 miles before stalling again. The last time that it stalled, it would not even turn over. I tried to turn the (locked) steering wheel a little bit, after which it did turn over and after a few more attempts, it started back up and I got home.
I took the vehicle to the mechanic again, who by this time was totally confused. He worked on it, for 2-3 hours but was not able to find anything. He said that he needed it for a longer period of time before he could figure out what was wrong. Anyway, so I told him that he can keep it next week for 3 days. So before leaving, he tells me that the check engine light is gone again. Since I have the crankshaft position sensor, I ask him to replace that anyway. I begin the drive back home, the vehicle drives fine on the freeway, I cover around 12 miles or so, and then when I am in the city, it stalls again. I pull over in a parking lot, try to crank it back up, it turns over but does not start. it finally does, I put it in reverse, it stalls again, I try again and it finally starts. I am able to get home. Interestingly, this time the check engine light does NOT come on. This happened 4 days back. I drove 15 miles to work this morning around 4:30 am and it drove fine, but I know it will stall sooner rather than later.
One last thing - when I press the gas pedal, the vehicle does increase in speed linearly and gradually, but before it does that, it jerks for a second, and there is something about that jerk (I guess you could say the noise), which inclines me to believe that it is an electrical, rather than a mechanical issue. Also, I am absolutely positive that this "electrical jerking" is related to the stalling. The same part which causes the jerking is what is causing the stalling (at least this is what I think). This jerking is more defined at lower speeds rather than higher and when I have driven the vehicle for a longer distance, rather than shorter. Also, sometimes, when this jerking begins, I can use that to come to the safe conclusion that the vehicle is close to stalling.
I made the mistake of driving this thing with the check engine light on for quite sometime. I don't know whether it contributed to the stalling or not, but there was no stalling for the first few months that I drove it (even with the check engine light on). It started to happen during the last 2 months.
After getting all of things mentioned above done, the vehicle drives much better, but the core issue is still there and has frustrated me more than I can describe.
Two days back, while returning from work, the rpm needle abruptly dropped to zero and then immediately shot right back to what it was. This happened within a fraction of a second. I am thinking that if this were the case of a part overheating, then the rpm would not have shot back up. I mean, if a part overheats, then it overheats and if can cause the vehicle to stall, then the vehicle will stall (and remain stalled). How can the rpm needle immediately move back to normal? Did the overheated part cool down suddenly (in a fraction of a second)? Not likely.
Once again, I am not going to throw any parts at the vehicle (never done that, other than the component cooler), but just an observation.
Another observation - if this were an overheating issue, then why have there been some cases when I have been able to start the vehicle in 2-3 cranks?
Last thing - I had to go to supercuts, which is like a mile away from my house. I start the car and the rpm needle "falls down" abruptly by half an inch and then moves back up. The car then drives without any issues to the hair salon. I turn off the ignition, go inside and after 30 minutes, I come outside, get in my car and it won't start. It did start like 3 times, but the rpm needle fell right back and it shut off. Finally, after 45 minutes or so, it started back up and I was able to drive back home.
I have no clue what is happening. As far as today's encounter is concerned, the only information that I can provide is that I live in Arizona and the temperature right now is 110F.
Also, whenever I turn on the car and then the a/c, the RPM increases from around 800 to 1000 and the car starts to vibrate. Don't know whether this is significant or not, but I thought I'd mention anyway.
This is it. I have tried to keep it as detailed as I can and tried to provide information on each and every incident. Please feel free to ask any questions if you want to.
And thanks for your help in advance.
AnswerK,
The problem is most likely electrical since you have issues with things cutting on and off. I would be checking the remanufactured distributor to make sure the optical shutter wheel is not contaminated with oil. If there are miles on the engine like 100,000 miles I would think you have excessive blowby and that is causing the distributor seal to fail.
