Camber kits are used on various makes and models of vehicles that have a coil spring suspension and a two-inch performance accessories coil spring suspension lift. The whole purpose to the camber kit is to be able to adjust the camber (the degree of the alignment of the wheels along its perpendicular axis to the ground) without the hassle of purchasing new wheels or other shop adjustments thus reducing damage to the tire and making them last longer.
Park the vehicle in a clean dry area that is level and place blocks of wood, bricks or other materials around the wheels to prevent them from rolling in any direction. Disconnect the negative battery cable before disconnecting the positive cable.
Jack the car up either only at the front or back, or by lifting the whole vehicle, depending on what tires you need to fix.
Remove the stock ball joints in the front by taking out the locking pin, then the nut. Place the ball joint remover fork in between the ball joint and the suspension assembly. Hammer the ball joint remover until the two items separate from each other. Remove the ball joint using a three jaw presser and forcing screw, and install the new ball joints.
When installing the new ball joints, line up the two sliding plates after you have the ball joint past the opening of the suspension yolk and the top sliding plate. Slide the suspension assembly through the bottom bolt and with the teeth side facing down, tighten the locking nut. Put the ball joint in the position that is furthest out, tighten it, and put the wheel back on.
To remove the rear stock control arm, take off the locking pin from the control arm ball joint's bolt at the top center. Take away the locking nut and put the ball joint remover between the ball joint and the suspension assembly, and hammer it until the two separate. Take off the bolt that is on the other side but only the shiny side as the other one is welded on. Detach the control arm.
Install the new control arm by loosening the locking nuts and twisting the control arm on both sides until they stop. Don’t do them together with the center piece. Put the old control arms next to the new ones and use the center piece to adjust the length of the new one. Tighten the new bolt back on before putting the new control arm’s ball joint on and tightening it. Put in a new locking pin, bending it to keep it in place. Tighten up the bushing bolt and take the control thread arm out three inches for every inch that it is dropped. Tighten up the locking nuts and put the wheel back on. Inspect and test the suspension to ensure it is done correctly.
