1998 Jeep TJ - JP Magazine

Junkyard Built Dana 44, Part II Verne Simons Senior Editor, Jp 1998 Jeep Tj front View Axle Photo 9276715

In the last issue, we built up a junkyard-scrounged Honda Passport Dana 44 rearend for our four-banger '98 TJ. This axle allowed us to run disc brakes, bigger shafts, 5.89 gears, and a Detroit Locker. We gained serious traction and beef, all held in place with stout, weld-on axle brackets that you can install at home. This month, you'll find the buildup of possibly the best uncut front axle you can get at the junkyard for a YJ or KJ.

This axle is also a Dana 44, but it comes from a Jeep-namely '80-and-later FSJ Wagoneers. It has a driver-side drop differential, making it perfect for newer Jeeps with chaindriven, aluminum transfer cases. It's an extremely beefy assembly that features 2 3/4-inch diameter axletubes, desirable internal-spline locking hubs, 30-spline axleshafts, and big disc brakes (just like a 1/2-ton Chevy/GMC truck, Blazer, or Suburban 4x4). It also allows the use of any Dana 44 internal parts like our Yukon Gear 5.89 ring-and-pinion and Detroit Locker from Eaton. Perhaps the best part is that this axle matches the 6-on-5 1/2 lug pattern and width of our rear Honda Dana 44 axle. Here's how you put it in yourTJ.

PARTS AND COSTS Housing, knuckles, hubs, spindles, and yoke from junkyard $350 Suspension brackets from Dynatrac $400 Yukon 5.89 gears $191 Yukon master install kit $129 Detroit Locker $579 Gear install labor $250 Ball joints, upper and lower, on both sides $89 U-joints $55 Brake lines $40 Calipers $45 Brake pads $22 Rotors $70 Wheel bearings ${{{90}}} Spindle stud kit (all 12) $13 Seals $15 Spindle nuts and washer(per side) $9 {{{Wagoneer}}} tie rod $150 Drag-link ends $80 Inserts $24 Jam nuts $8 Tubing $40   Total: $2,649 PhotosView Slideshow The first order of business is to find a donor truck to pull this axle from. Our local junkyard had our axle buried underneath a rusty '80 Wagoneer. We had the wrecking yard pull the axle out on a frosty December day (it was 5 degrees F), and the Jeep was literally frozen to the ground. If the Jeep you pull your axle out of was like ours and had been retired for a while, be prepared to rebuild the hubs, replace ball joints, tie rods, brakes, U-joints, and so on. Basically, any wearable parts will need servicing or replacement. When we got our axle home, we started tearing it apart. We had to use some choice methods to remove the old selectable locking hubs because the retaining screws were stripped. The brake backing plates were very rusty, too, and the dust shields crumbled in our hands as we removed them. Like our Honda rear axle ("Junkyard-Built, Part I," Apr. '07), we ground off the shock mounts and the passenger-side leaf-spring pad. We then took the cleaned-up, stripped-down Waggy Dana 44 to a local ring-and-pinion specialist to have our Randy's Ring & Pinion Yukon 5.89 gears and install kit bolted to an Eaton Detroit Locker and slapped into the housing. Once we got the axle back with the new gears installed, we started mounting our Dynatrac TJ brackets to the housing. We first set the Dana 44 on jackstands near our Jeep with the Dana 30 still installed. Using an angle finder, we set the caster on the Dana 44 equal to the Dana 30, then we located the center of both axles and measured for placement of the brackets. Take it slow, and measure angle and placement several times before tack welding the brackets in place. OK, so now the No Lift TJ actually is lifted about 1/4-inch in the front. In order to clear the portion of the differential housing where the tube is pressed in, we had to weld these plates onto the Dynatrac coil perches. Waggy Dana 44s have a cast-in spring perch on the driver side that occupies space where the lower control arm will be on the TJ's four-link front suspension. We machined a corner of this perch with our reciprocating saw and then cleaned it up with our 4 1/2-inch angle grinder. PhotosView Slideshow Welding directly to the cast housing is possible, but it will generally be weaker than welding to steel. So we attached a 1/4-inch steel plate by drilling and tapping two holes for Grade 8 bolts in the bottom of the perch instead. We then added more 1/4-inch plate to tie in the coil mount on top of the axle. The Dynatrac lower control-arm bracket is welded to this hefty plate rather than the cast portion of the housing. The remaining bracketry is much easier to install. With the Dynatrac brackets properly located, we went to work with the MIG welder to sew 'em home. The Dynatrac parts are way beefier than the stock TJ Dana 30 pieces and can be made to fit nearly any front axlehousing. Rubicon Express control arms allow us the adjustability needed to get our Dana 44 axle located with proper caster and a pinion angle that's close to dead on. You'll need to invest in a serious wrench to snug the jam nuts on these beefy arms. We also recommend an adjustable track bar for lifted Jeeps. However, our Jeep's low-slung suspension and the larger differential housing made the stock track bar the only option for us. Steering on a TJ, XJ, MJ, ZJ, or WJ is complex and needs to be set up correctly to avoid bumpsteer. We ran this rope through the mounting points of our drag link and track bar to show the location relationship. These two links should be as close to parallel (and length) as possible to avoid bumpsteer. Our setup was close, and we were able to move the track bar up just a bit to get our steering damn near perfect. We used these threaded tubing inserts and jam nuts with the stock TJ tie-rod end (PN ES3096L) at the pitman arm, which requires a 22mm lefthand thread insert and jam nut. The other tie-rod end is for an '85 Chevy Blazer (PN ES2234R). This fits the stock Waggy tie rod's tapered hole and requires a 7/8-18 righthand thread insert and jam nut. We welded the threaded inserts into a length of rock-crushing 1 1/2-inch, 0.250-wall tubing. We made some L-brackets to hold the new rubber brake hoses on the frame. Brake fluid runs through a pair of the longest Wagoneer rubber brake hoses we could find in our local part store's catalog. If you kept the 6-lug pattern, you'll need some new wheels. The '70s-'90s Woody Wagoneers would have those multi-spoke 15x8-inch alloys that would look awesome on a TJ and match the lug pattern. These wheels are wide enough for 12 1/2-inch wide tires and maybe more. We couldn't find a decent set of Waggy wheels locally, but we did come across these bargain industrial-looking black 15x8-inch smoothies. Our Waggy front axle uses standard 7/16-20 lug nuts, and the Honda Dana 44 rearend uses metric 12x1.5 lug nuts. We found acorn lug nuts that are the same outside dimensions for both, so we only need to carry one lug wrench in case of a flat.