QuestionQUESTION: Hi Roland! Hope you can shed some light, or at least point me in the right direction. I have a 2000 Chrysler LHS that just started with this problem. When the motor gets warm, and when I say warm, I mean normal operating temp. Not over heating at all. The car 1) loses power, and emits a noise similar to that of a bearing knock. 2) The motor shuts off completely!
If I let it sit for 20 mins. or so, till it cools down a bit. It does start, and I go thru the same process again.
PLEASE help me out!! car only has 110,000 miles
ANSWER: Hi Bryan,
The best approach is to get a fault code from the engine control module. Try turning the key:
on-off-on-off-on and leave on, doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window of the instrument cluster to see the mileage reading replaced by a 4-digit number preceded by a P. Tell me number(s) and we'll go from there.
Please read the PS (below) and respond to it.
Thanks,
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hey Roland. Here are the codes.
P1684
P0703
Can you tell me what that means??
AnswerHi Bryan,
The 1684 means that sometime in the past 50 or so starts that the battery was disconnected from the circuit the goes to the powertrain control module. Unless this has not be done purposely to your knowledge I would check the battery cable connections at the battery and also there is a negative post remote connection at the right side strut tower so check that too.
The 0703 speaks to an issue related to the circuit that is used with the cruise control that senses when you have stepped on the brake. That is perhaps true if you notice a malfunction in the cruise control function but it would not explain the stalling out unless it happens in association with your use of the cruise control.
So we are left with no fault codes that would appear to apply to the situation. The only engine-related item that I am aware of which can cause a temporary stalling and difficulty restarting is when the exhaust gas recirculation valve get gummed up and fails to automatically close tightly when either you accelerate or alternatively decelerate to stop. When that happens the mixture gets too lean to support either idling or accelerating. So you might try spraying some WD-40 at the base of the egr valve stem to try and free up the action of this spring-loaded valve. or alternatively to remove it and try spraying the WD-40 internally into the pipe opening of the valve proper.
That is my best suggestion to you, except to keep checking for another code.
Thanks for doing the rating/nomination. Feel free to do both again if I have been helpful.
Roland
