QuestionMy van is gettin' old but it's MINE now...
so are the problems...
I did a key sequence check and got the following codes...code 14 and code 32...
Sometimes when I start in the morning, the RPM's go up and down, sometimes to the point of a stall.
If the van keeps running, then after about 1 minute it will run fine...until I come to a stop, mind you not every time.
Once it has been on the highway for the drive to work, it is good...no stalls or anything.
From what i got on the mopar site...
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
these codes indicate MAP sensor, and EGR problems.
We don't have Autozone here as was previously suggested...
Any immediate advice?
Thanks
Andrew
AnswerHi Andrew,
It is good that you could do code readout with the ignition key in a '98 model; usually by then only a code reader would do the job. I think that your morning start up issues are caused by an egr valve that is sticking slightly ajar which is messing up the fuel/air ratio. First is to look over the exhaust gas recirculation (egr) valve and associated control and vacuum hoses. This system connects the rear (side of the engine next to the firewall) exhaust manifold to the intake manifold near the throttle body and the pipe that connects the two runs between the two manifolds. The valve is bolted into that pipe and controls the exhaust gas amounts that return to the intake. The valve has to open and close firmly and quickly or the engine will not operate well due to a mixture of fuel and air that will not allow the engine to accelerate or idle well, if the valve is not where it is supposed to be. Often it will get sticky and fail to close all the way, for example which it has to do at idle and when stepping on the gas toward full open throttle. It is controlled by a vacuum operated and electrical control solenoid mounted near by, and those vacuum hoses should be examined to make sure there is no cracked, leaking, or disconnected hose fittings. There is a vacuum operated round fitting on its top, and also a vacuum line going to an electrically operated valve closer to the engine, nearer the throttle body. Look under the round fitting (which is mounted on a saddle with openings for access to view) on the top of the valve where you will see a rod with a slot in it which is the valve stem. Take a straight blade screwdriver, insert it in the slot, and then use the driver to lever the valve up (against spring pressure) and let it return to see if it is dropping back all the way down due to spring's action and closing positively to a firm closed position. Spray WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant on the valve stem to loosen it up in that in and out motion. Check to make sure the vacuum lines are all attached and not cracked. Then warm up the engine and observe the slot to see if it goes up when you rev the engine to 2500 rpm and then drops back down fully, closing the valve, when you let the engine go back to idle rpm. Make sure that the fully down position is really down because if it is not fully closing when you let go of the accelerator and coast that will cause the engine to stall. It may be that to get it to close you'll have to unbolt it and clean out the gas flow passage past the valve, due to buildup of exhaust fumes in the valve as sticky crud deposit around the internal valve.
Let me know if that doesn't help and we'll consider some other possibilities. But the egr function can be a big detriment if it isn't in the correct position for the conditions that are needed for a good mixture.
The MAP sensor is also involved with producing a proper fuel/air ratio. You should find it mounted on the alternator mounting bracket. It has a vacuum line going to it and a 3-wire connector. Check that the vacuum line is cracked and that it is firmly attached at the MAP and at the intake manifold whose pressure reading is what the MAP is measuring and sending to the engine controller to obtain the correct injector pulse length for a correct fuel/air ratio. You also could check the voltage at the sensor wires:
with the ignition turned on but the engine not running mwasure between the violet/white wire and the black/light blue wire (use a fine pin on each wire to penetrate the insulation to make contact with the internal conductor). The voltage should be about 5V. Then with the engine running at idle measure between the dark green/red wire and he black light blue wire and observe for a reading around 1.5V. If the vacuum line is tight and the voltage changes (increases briefly when you rev the engine) then the MAP is alright. Otherwise, if the voltage doesn't vary or is far off om value you might want to invest in a new sensor.
But verify the egr valve first.
Roland
