Chrysler Repair: 2000 cirrus starting problems, chrysler cirrus lxi, 2000 chrysler cirrus lxi

Question
2000 chrysler cirrus lxi 2.5 v6  77,000 miles

here resently my car has been giving me problems starting.  first it would crank unusally longer than normal that happend a couple of times before it died.  but it started back up with no problems.  the other day I just had started it up began driving down the street and as I stopped it died.  I havn't had a tune up on the car but that will be done soon I was wondering if that was the problem or could it be something else.  thank you Dane

Answer
Hi Dane,
O.K. now we know there are no codes for your problem. I agree that it could be a fuel problem, but not a fuel supply issue rather a mixture issue. I just sent this reply to another Cirrus owner who had a similar problem:
I would wonder if the egr valve might be sticking open until it warms up, or a vacuum leak is present that seals itself.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
So see if that might be what is going on. If not, then I would look over all the hoses that are attached to the intake manifold for leaks or loose fittings. Another possibility is the idle air passageway in the throat of the throttle body is partially clogged, so remove the air intake hose and try cleaning that small opening and also clean the throttle plate (both sides) with solvent.
These are the usual cause of poor idle. One last possibility is the idle air control that regulates the idle air passageway is cruddy, so that should be removed and cleaned up to make sure that it is free to regulate the air passing thru the idle air passageway (clean the tip and the hole that it operates thru in the body).
Please let me know which, if any, of these suggestions seem to fix the idle problem.
Roland