Ford Repair: 93 Ford Explorer ABS brakes, pressure pot, volunteer expert

Question
I just came accross your profile and thought that maybe you could help me the following issues that I am dealing with.

I asked another volunteer expert the following questions and have included his answers.

First, there is my initial question followed by an answer, then my attempt to clarify followed by the second answer.

I am hopeing that you might also know something about this issue and be able to add some wisdom, or at least verify or clarify what was given to me.

I appreciate your time,

Matt B.


Question  1-
I recently acquired a 93 Explorer that I believe may have master cylinder trouble, as the brake petal is spongy and seems to have a lot of travel. The car stops ok, but also seems to lock up (or rather the ABS kicks in) easily on wet roads. This is the first car that I've had that has all four anti-lock brakes.

Anyway the question/situation is this:
I would like to know about replacing the master cylinder myself. The Hanes book is telling me that I cannot replace the master cylinder at home because it takes special high dollar tools to bleed it and possibly the anti-lock controller. It basically says that any opening in the system above the anti-lock controller has to be bleed by a professional shop. As an aircraft mechanic, I have a hard time dealing with many shops due to cost and many times they do sloppy work. (I am sure that some don't but I probably can't afford them.)

Is there any other way to do it myself without paying for a shop? What about reverse flushing/bleeding the system with a pressure pot. That is how we do it on some airplanes, but they don't really have the same type of anti-lock systems.

Thanks for any help that you can give.
MB

Answer 1-
yes... first you know you must bench bleed then install the master . then with the vehicle running hold your foot down on the peddle and have some one help you bleed the brakes. now you can either pump them or you can just hold them down and the sys. will self bleed.

-------------------------
additional question???


Question 2-
Thanks, but I have an additional question now:
by "self bleed" you mean that while I am holding the peddle down the initial time, someone else loosens the bleed valves at each wheel (like the "old fashion way" but with the engine running). Then, I either pump them or hold the peddle down again and it will self bleed.

I am not sure I really understand if that is what you mean. Will you be a little more specific on the procedure after the master cyl is installed? I just don't want to screw it all up and have to end up at a shop to pay for my doing it wrong...

These are the steps as I understand them now.
1. bench bleed and install MC.

2. Start the engine.

3. one person holds down the peddle while another bleeds each wheel.
-I assume closest to MC to furthest away - or does it matter here? -

4. once all four wheels are opened and closed (without the peddle ever
being released) then the person holding the peddle releases it and
presses down again either pumping or just holding it down a second
time for a bit. (This step is where the system self-bleeds, right?)

5. go for a joy ride with a good firm brake system. Smiling that I didn't have to buy a very expensive tool or pay a shop to do this project.

Thanks again, you have given me and my wallet some hope in this endeavor!
Matt B.



Answer 2 -
yes either way you pump them up then hold and someone opens the bleeder  

Answer
Hi Matt,
First check the rear brakes are adjusted OK and have prenty of shoe left. Also make sure the rear brakes don't lock up. If the brakes arn't adjusted properly, you will get a bad pedal that feels like a bad master cylinder. If that is OK, replace the master cylinder. Bench bleed it and bleed the wheels as above. If you still think you have air in the system, take it to your mechanic and have him pressure bleed the system.


Jeff
AllExperts