Hyundai Repair: hyundai elantra fuel problem?, hyundai elantra, fuel pump relay switch


Question
QUESTION: we have a 2001 elantra 2.0 .recently we lost power and wouldnt   start so the garage fitted a new fuel pump relay switch however it still stall after short distances ie 100 -500 metres. the mechanics say that there is nothing wrong but problems still persist. any help would be gratefully recieved
ANSWER: If you have a mechanic that observes the vehicle stopping after 100 to 500 meters and claims there's nothing wrong, you need another (competent and honest) mechanic.

For me to be of assistance, I'll need some more information to help me understand what's happening:
1.  Does the vehicle ever drive more than 100 to 500m?  If so, how frequently does the problem occur?
2.  When the vehicle stalls, do the electrical devices still work?
3.  Does the vehicle start up and run normally after staling?
4.  Does the vehicle run normally except when it stalls?  If not, describe the other issues you have with how the vehicle runs.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Everytime i have driven the car it hasn't travelled more than 500m, although it seems to happen when i have stopped at a junction and then as i turn it starts to go. The last time i drove it (with the mechanic) it stopped twice (in a space of 300m) the second time the mechanic drove and he put his foot down and the car seemed fine. albeit the engine light had come on. The garage claims it takes my car out several times a day and not once has it lost power and stopped. The RAC came out and tested all the engine and it showed everything to work, he even wrote in his report that he believes it could be the fuel pump, but garage insist it isnt.
In my experience, at the beginning of problem, the car would finally start but it would feel sluggish, but otherwise ok. But its getting worse.
The last time i drove the car, it started up ok, went to the end of the road ok, and i stopped at junction, for 2 minutes, then went round corner and it started chugging along then i stopped by side of road and it continued chugging and rattling then stopped completely. Then we couldn't start it again. After 5 minutes the mechanic told me to lock up car and then open again, then car worked fine, until i got to roundabout, i could feel it slowing, i stopped for 30 seconds, and made it a quarter of way round and it did the same and stopped, it takes about 10-15minutes to get it going, then as i said the mechanic drove, put his foot down and the car seemed fine (this was in a private back road), i swapped and put my foot down and it went ok if sluggish (and of course engline light on) after about 15 minutes they took it out for another test drive and they said it was fine.

Answer
Since the engine lamp is coming on, the first step is to interrogate the engine control module (ECM) and read the stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).  This will probably provide the largest hint as to the nature of the problem.  

I suspect the fuel pump may be worn.  In that case, I'd expect at least two separate misfire codes.  In any event, once you have the codes, reply back with the code numbers.  In the U.S., AutoZone and AAMCO will read trouble codes for no charge.  If there's no one in your area that will do this, you'll need to take the car to a shop with the capability of reading OBD-II trouble codes or purchase a code reader to read them yourself.