Nissan Repair: nissan quest runs bad when hot, volt ohm meter, distributor shaft


Question
after taking the distributor apart to check for oil runs worse , and no oil in it .i checked the injectors with stethascope .one is not clicking at all.
-------------------------------------------
The text above is a follow-up to ...

-----Question-----
I've got a 1995 Nissan Quest.  It has 88,000 miles.  It runs fine when it is first started.  After it is fully heated and/or shut off an restarted it misses badly, acts like the timing is way off, backfires through the intake when giving it throttle, and won't rev over 2000 rpm (it falls on it's face, bogs, spits, sputters).  The plugs, wires, cap, roter, tps, fuel filter and coil have all been changed.  There has never been a check engine light.  There is no stored codes either.  The fuel pump has been checked and is in working order as well as the egr system.
-----Answer-----
Steve,

Check the distributor for oil on the optics.  Sounds like once the engine gets warm and the oil gets going it works it's way up the distributor shaft to through the seal and on to the optical shutter wheel.  Take the cap, rotor, rotor post and cover off and look at the optical shutter wheel and the pickup and receiver and if there is oil replace the distributor.

Answer
Steve,

You found a problem with the one injector.  I would check the rest using a volt ohm meter set to ohms.  Check all the injectors and replace any that are out of range.  Basically, you can check all of them and they should check the same.  Those that don't need to be replaced.  You see, when the engine is cold it runs rich and that will mask the injector problem.  Once it gets hot and leans out you get the rough running and stumble.  I am cheap and love to go to the wrecking yard and source injectors.  You can purchase a complete set for the cost of a new or rebuilt unit.  Again, do an ohms check and use the ones that fall within range.