Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Wards 15HP tractor, switch jumper, jumper wire

Question
Model 33144A 43348, Serial 27X15958. It was running fine when parked for the winter, now will not start. There is no spark at the plug; the wire sends a small shock when turning over, but not powerful enough to fire. It has rust about the voltage regulator. The points appear to be operating correctly, but see no spark there. I have no manual, and do not know what the point gap, or the plug gap, should be.

Answer
Hello Jerry:

Sorry for the Delay. This Question was Located in the Question Pool. Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. However, Lets do a Few Diagnostic Checks. 1- **To Check the Ign Coil; Remove the Spark Plug/s. Wrap a Wire Around the Threads of the Plug and Attach the Other End of the Wire to the Engine Block. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). The Wire that is Connected to the Coil/Ign Module from the Shut Off Switch needs to be Removed (unplugged) from the Coil/Ign Module. Now Check for Spark at the Plug. If Spark, then the Shut Off Switch or the Wire is Bad. If Still No Spark, then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad. If there are Safety Switches on this Unit and the Coil is Good; you Need to Check the Safety Switches for Being Bad Also.** 2- **PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY. I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch Jumper from Same Color Wire to Same Color Wire). Check the Clutch/Break and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades.** 3- **First, Pour a Small Amount of Fuel Mix Into the Carburetor Throat while Holding the Throttle at Full. Still Holding the Throttle at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.**  If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John