QuestionQUESTION: I noticed in an earlier post that this could be a problem with
a poorly charged battery not operating the electric shift
interlock. My battery is new, but I did remove and remount the
dash (heater core) and wondered if this device could be
broken. If so, where is it found?
ANSWER: Hi Donnie:
1st, I'm going to guess that it is a floor shift. If not, then all of the following is wrong for your vehicle.
The shift interlock is a small silver plunger mounted on the right side of the column behind the key, accessible after you take the covers off. But before we go there, usually the problem is the floor shifter not registering in "Park" all the way. The flapper (or push button) on the shift knob needs to snap back all the way in order for the column to know the vehicle is in Park. I would recommend taking the shift handle off and spraying WD40 down the shift shaft so the center plastic rod jumps forcefully when you push it down. This is the shift interlock mechanism and sometimes it gets sticky. when that happens, it doesn't snap back all the way indicating it's not locked in Park. With the handle off and the lever operating properly, try the key. It should work fine now.
If not, then you will need to remove the covers on the column and remove the plunger itself. Be VERY careful not to break the red plastic 4-way button when taking the top cover off
Good luck
Doug
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Sorry. I didn't know they came with a floor shifter. Mine is a column shifter. And here is some more info. Today I disconnected the linkage at the column and was able to shift by pushing and pulling on the cable quite easily. It followed all the normal rules like not letting me out of park unless I stepped on the brake. Even disconnected, however, the column shifter itself won't come out of park.
Oh it gets better... now it starts even without the key. Inserting and removing the key is tough, like it's still locked, but slipping out because it's old and sloppy?
Answer
cable
OK, sorry about the long wrong answer Donnie:
Here's what you have.
The covers need to come off. It's best if the steering wheel and airbag are removed to avoid breaking the 4-way button. I cannot stress enough how fragile that $275 switch is.
Once the covers are off, look behind the lock housing where the key goes. There is a small black cable that attaches to the shifter and goes inside the aluminum case. This is your shift interlock cable. This is not the large shift cable that goes to the transmission, this one is only about 10" long and is about 1/8" diameter. I've attached a picture of it for your reference.
Herein lies your problem. The cable is not moving properly and is binding both the lock cylinder and the shifter. the cable has a little black snap that releases it from the housing, but it only releases in the ACC position; if you cannot rotate the key, you won't be able to do that.
You may need to remove the aluminum housing to get the cable out. To remove the housing, you will need a spring plate compressor to get to the bolts that hold it on...there are 3 of them.
This one will fight you some, but once you get the cable out of the way, everything will work fine
As far as the key and lock cylinder go, once the lock rotates back to the lock position properly, it should be fine. Right now, you are just forcing everything and none of the locking mechanisms are synchronized.
Good luck
Doug
P.S.
As far as the key and lock cylinder go, once the lock rotates back to the lock position properly, it should be fine. Right now, you are just forcing everything and none of the locking mechanisms are synchronized.
