E-mail your tech questions to us at carcraft@primedia.com (include the words "What's Your Problem?" in the subject line) or fax them to 323/782-2223. All correspondence must be signed with the sender's real name (not a nickname or a screen name) and include the sender's hometown and state or province. While mail cannot be answered personally, Car Craft will publish as many letters and replies as space permits. Photos arewelcome, but no materials will be returned.
Color Me Olds
I'm in the process of restoring a '69 Olds 4-4-2 and I have a '70s 455 for it. My question is simple: In regards to paint color and engine availability for that year, what color should my engine be? I know the 400s are gold and the '70s 455s are blue, but I've been told the car didn't come with a 455 in '69, though I've also been told that it did, and that they are red for '68-'69. So did the '69 4-4-2 have a 455 available, and if so, what color was it?
My other question is about a big-block Olds motor you built in the Oct. '00 issue, but I don't have that issue-you referred to it in your Jan. '03 issue. The 469 hp and 563 lb-ft sound good to me, and since I'm about to build my own Olds 455 for my Cutlass, I was wondering if you could share the details of that build with me. Also, how rough is the idle on it (with a horsepower peak of 5,300 rpm I figured it would still be fairly smooth, which is what I want).
Martin Demlow
Hudson, MI
The Oldsmobile 455 was introduced for the '68 model year, but GM's self-imposed limit of 400 cubes for intermediates prevented the use of its biggest engine in any of the A-body variants at that time, with the exception of the Hurst/Olds for '68-'69. Apparently, the fact that final assembly on these cars was outsourced seemed to take advantage of a loophole in GM's internal rulebook allowing the use of the 455 in those models. Of course, for 1970, the restrictions were ditched and the 455 became the standard engine for the 4-4-2, and an option in some other Cutlass models.
The 455 engines used in '68 and '69 were limited to fullsize models and Toronados, and these engines were usually painted red, as you've heard. The original 400 in your 4-4-2 would probably have been painted a metallic bronze color, and as you suspected, the later 455s were mostly painted a metallic blue until the last 455 engines were built for the '76 model year. So the choice for color is yours. We'd probably go the sneaky route and paint it the same color as the original engine so it wouldn't be obvious, both to potential opponents at the track and resto freaks at shows.
The Olds 455 we built back in 2000 was a pretty basic recipe. We started with a sound core, bored it 0.060-inch over, and reassembled the reconditioned crank and rods with new Speed-Pro hypereutectic pistons. The cam was a Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 274H grind (0.520/0.523-inch lift, 230/236 duration at 0.050, 110-degree lobe separation angle), and the short-block was topped with Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum cylinder heads making 9.77:1 compression with the 77cc combustion chambers. We would have used a Performer RPM intake, but Edelbrock still doesn't offer it for the big Olds. Instead, we used a Performer to make the power figures you quoted. Later, Hot Rod borrowed the same engine to test some new parts from Mondello. With Mondello's Twister Posi-Flow single-plane intake manifold and a Mondello MPV-1-2 solid, flat-tappet cam (0.557/0.574-inch lift, 244/253 degrees duration at 0.050, 110-degree lobe separation), the 455 made 527 hp at 5,700 rpm and 550 lb-ft at 4,200 rpm). When the engine was running the Comp Xtreme 274 grind, the idle was a little choppy, but when mated to an automatic trans with a mild torque converter (2,200 rpm or more), you'd probably never notice it. The Mondello combo was definitely hairier.
Huevos for Rancheros
I have some questions for you regarding my Ford 460 buildup. I'm 16, so this is understandably my first buildup. I have no experience with engine-building, so someone else will be putting it together. First of all, I would like to dyno-test the engine so the cam will be broken in properly. I'd also like to see how much power it makes before we put it in our '78 Ford Ranchero. I would like some info on what is needed to take the engine to a dyno. We have the assembled short-block, assembled heads, all gaskets, oil pan, oil pump/pickup, timing cover, and intake. Obviously we need a fuel pump, distributor, starter, carb, and some other little stuff (wires, valve covers, and so on).
I've seen a picture in your magazine of an engine on a dyno stand and noticed the water pump wasn't connected to the crank. Also, the machine shop that built the engine told us we would have to run 100-plus octane gas, so will we have to bring our own? Overall I am confused about what to expect at the dyno.
Matt Rohman
Plymouth, MN
When we dyno-test engines for the magazine, we usually do it at facilities that are accustomed to working with us, since we test regularly. These places, like Westech in Mira Loma, California, make dyno testing very easy by having lots of parts, pieces, supplies, and tools on hand, plus a willingness to do what it takes to make the test happen. However, situations like this are more the exception than the rule when dealing with dyno shops. Generally, the dyno shop expects you to have your engine absolutely ready to go when you show up, and since these shops usually charge by the day, it's in your best interest to be prepared-you don't want to spend the better part of a $600 day screwing around trying to get the engine to run. The first step after selecting a dyno facility is to talk to the operator to find out what they expect and what they can provide.
You mentioned having a short-block along with assembled heads and some other parts. You need to assemble the engine completely before getting to the dyno; bolt on the heads, intake, and rockers, and install plugs for any coolant or oiling ports that you know won't be used during the test. Keep in mind that one oil port is usually connected to a sensor for the oil pressure gauge on the dyno console. You also need to make sure your carb fits and functions, but the fuel is often provided by the dyno's fuel system, so a mechanical pump will usually be unnecessary. You should install a block-off plate in its place, however.
Some dyno facilities have electric water pumps so the beltdriven pump doesn't have to be connected to the crank. Sometimes these are application-specific pumps, and in these instances, the most popular application are often the only ones offered, like small-block Chevy and small-block Ford. There are also dynos that use external water pumps, but these usually require that the stock pump be in place. If you have to use a stock pump driven off the crank, you'll need the crank and water-pump pulleys, plus a short belt that fits around the two. You won't be able to look up the belt length-you have to figure it out. It isn't imperative that the belt is very tight, just as long as it will drive the pump. To install the belt, you'll probably have to remove the water-pump pulley, fit the belt over the pulley, then loop it around the bottom of the crank pulley as you slip the water-pump pulley onto the pump. If you can get the belt on without removing one of the pulleys, it's too loose.
You should also figure on having the engine mounts bolted to the block, and you'll need to find out whether or not the dyno facility has a bellhousing to fit your engine, and if they will also need a flywheel. In some cases, neither is required, but you need to know these things in advance.
You're going to need headers for the dyno, and again, many dyno shops have their own, particularly if standard passenger-car tubes won't clear the dyno itself. Of course, if you're running a less-common engine (like a Ford 460) the shop probably won't have headers. Try to figure out if your headers will work on the dyno prior to the day of your test, as this is the sort of thing that can cost lots of time if it catches you by surprise. As for fuel and oil, plan on bringing your own, or paying the markup on this stuff to the dyno shop, if they even stock it.
The whole dyno experience can be summed up this way: Figure on having the engine so that you can swing it from your truck to the dyno, having only to spin wrenches to actually mount the engine to the dyno and bolt up the headers. Bring any spares you think you may need also, as you never know what might break.
Our Mistake?
Regarding your response in November's "What's Your Problem?" to the question about Ford distributor swapping, you are correct in your dissertation except for one minor point: The reader stated he has a 351M, as in Midland, commonly called 351 Modified. The 351M/400 series engines use a common distributor with the 429 and 460 big-blocks, and in fact, they have longer shafts than the small block 302s. What he needs to do is get a '75-'84, 302 Duraspark distributor. It will plug right into his old harness. This also answers the oil pump driveshaft problem. The 351 Windsor distributor is unique because of its 1.3-inch-taller deck height.
Ray Vaira
Ash Flat, AK
In case you haven't already been flooded with mail, the November issue of Car Craft has a mistake in the answer to "Distributor Discrepancy." He can't get the distributor to work with the oil pump shaft because the 302 uses a small-block distributor while the 351M uses a big-block distributor. He needs to find a 302 distributor from the late '70s/early '80s to keep the ignition from the '79 truck. Also, a 351W distributor won't work with a 302 because the block is taller, hence a longer distributor. Nobody walks on water; we all make mistakes.
Sean Perry
Via the Internet
In your November "What's Your Problem?" article, there was a question concerning the 302 distributor fitting into the 351M engine. There is no way that distributor will go in there! The 351M uses a larger hex and has a larger-diameter body (where it fits into the block). He needs a 302 distributor to fit the 302 block. He could just swap the innards from the 351 distributor to the 302 distributor.
Steve Wilks
Carrollton, TX
Thanks for all your input, but if we all go back and read that question and the response, you'll hopefully find that no one asked if a 351M distributor would fit into a 302, nor was any advice offered to attempt this. The question was whether an early 302 distributor will fit in an older 302. By the way, those of you who pointed out that the 351W distributor is taller than the 302 distributor need to take another look at both of those engines. Despite the fact that the 351W has a taller deck height, the distance between the cam gear and the distributor mounting pad is basically the same (check the photos). However, you are right that the distributor for the 351W is unique, though it's the cam gear that makes all the difference.
